Lockhart Smokehouse, Plano, TX - a first look.

Crossing over the DART tracks into downtown Plano, you will quickly notice new construction surrounding the area off 15th Street. With a recent article from the Dallas Morning News of the city's planned mixed development sprawl southward, it’s not far-fetched to say downtown Plano is very similar to Bishop Arts District.

Already there is a healthy mix of shops, restaurants and bars such as Vickery Park, Fillmore Pub, and Kelly’s Eastside. In 2012, Urban Crust spawned a Tex-Mex sister, Urban Rio, and more recently the popular food truck, Cajun Tailgaters, moved into a brick and mortar.

Adding to the downtown diversity was the announcement of Lockhart Smokehouse's second location in the summer of 2013. December was initially the target month for open doors, but unfortunately this did not occur.

Owner Jeff Bergus said of the date being pushed back, “With every business, there will always be hurdles to jump over, but we’re close. I expect us opening within the next couple weeks.”

After an October fire to neighboring restaurant Zanata, the city of Plano tightened the reins on their plans. The pits had to be enclosed within a separate brick structure. Being housed in a building over 100 years old, Lockhart's owners obliged due to the safety factors involved.

Owner Jill Bergus was elated to have found a location with such history, and the preservation of its character played an important part during the renovation. “We just seem to fall into dumb luck," she said. "Between the Bishop Arts location and here, just luck.”

Originally there was a downtown McKinney location mapped out before that deal fell through. Though disappointed, Jill was content saying, “Because of that not working out, it gave us another year of learning and planning. I believe we’re in a much better position now.”

“This location gives us something we didn’t have before -- more space to accommodate our customer’s needs. There will be an upstairs dining area which will have a bar over looking the restaurant, and will also serve as dual purpose for an event space," she said.

Wanting to maintain as much of the building's original appearance as possible, they kept partially exposed brick walls, wooden floors, and an exposed ceiling. During the renovation, an old well was found where the downstairs bar is situated. This dated back to when every building had its own well for precautionary measures in case of a downtown fire.

As far as the menu goes, it will remain the same as the Bishop Arts location with a robust local craft beer selection. The service line will be more fluid from entrance to chopping block. One thing the Bergus' didn’t want to do was separate their customers from the quintessential barbecue experience and not allow them the opportunity to view the cutting of the meat.

With the first annual Suburbia Fest being announced earlier this month, there’s no denying Plano is becoming an eclectic place to live and play. If there was anything missing to the downtown's puzzle, Lockhart Smokehouse aims to put that piece in place.

Texas Monthly BBQ Fest by way of Hutchin's BBQ.

It’s fairly safe to claim the Texas Monthly BBQ Festival held every November in Austin is the Christmas of smoked meat. Only the best barbecue joints in the world (which so happen to ALL lie within Texas’ borders) receive invites and tickets sell out within minutes of being electronically released. For those who are technologically challenged, a walk up option was available with food not necessarily being guaranteed.

Every ticket purchaser should leave fat from the food and happy from the food and beer. If one did not waddle away 10 lbs. heavier while in an intense state of transcendent happiness combined with an overwhelming sense of contentment – you clearly screwed up somehow.

Photo by Cody Neathery.

Five of the 21 restaurants in attendance were from Dallas-Ft. Worth or the surrounding area, with all serving stellar cuts of brisket, ribs and sausage. The line-up included Dallas’ Pecan Lodge and Lockhart Smokehouse, Ft. Worth’s Cousin’s BBQ, McKinney’s Hutchin’s BBQ, and Stanley’s Famous Pit out of Tyler. Unfortunately several other local nominees didn’t attend but from previous year’s festivals – this was a strong showing and something for north Texas to celebrate.

As a man who often gets pulled into conversations relating to the best barbecue around, one would be surprised the amount of locals who still have not tried Pecan Lodge even though they have heard the buzz surrounding them. Most don’t even know its location. Let that sink in for a bit. We’re talking about the #2 joint in the world. Dallas, wake up. It’s located in your backyard. To the mayor of Dallas – wake up because you could potentially lose them. Asinine right!?

Imagine being the owner of a top ranked joint in Texas located roughly 30 miles north of Dallas but receiving not much more recognition than what was published from Texas Monthly back in May. Not a mere mention of congratulations from its hometown that was itself, listed as Money Magazine’s number 5 town in America as a ‘Best Place to Live.’ That being said, don’t you think their hometown would have a greater appreciation and respect for a national list?

Hello McKinney, Texas – have you met what is one of the best barbecue restaurants in Texas – or in the world? If not, Hutchin’s BBQ rests conveniently near your much publicized historic square which draws thousands of tourists annually. That seems to me that there is some missed opportunity in this equation or maybe someone in the tourism department has become complacent.

Dustin Blackwell - Hutchin's BBQ. Photo by Cody Neathery.

Arriving Saturday afternoon in Austin, the ultimate barbecue camp was constructed in the backyard-style parking lot where Pitmaster John Lewis churns out some of the most admirable protein from a food trailer known as La Barbecue. An abundance of fold out chairs, unwavering amount of beer and the congregation of new and old friends alike, you couldn’t ask for a better way to spend a Saturday.

Adding to the mystique of the soft smoke billowing out of the smokestacks and next door to La Barbecue, is a small single room store geared toward the religion of Santeria. Walking myself over with child-like curiosity or maybe spiritually guided by whiskey – there inside were shelves of religious statues, candles and bottles of magical potion. Ironically enough, some find barbecue to be a religious experience with hints of superstition and luck but the real magic begins at the hands of the pitmasters.

Hutchin's BBQ rib. Photo by Cody Neathery.

On Sunday, I had the privilege of attending the fourth annual Texas Monthly BBQ Fest as a guest of Hutchin’s BBQ. Tim Hutchin and long-time best friend, Dustin Blackwell, have turned this restaurant, established in 1978, into a barbecue mecca. The consistency they brought to the Fest bested some of the state’s more highly rated barbecue joints and it showed by the constant demand from the public.

You’re always going to have an understandably or baffling (however waiting three hours rubs you) long line for the usual suspects like Franklin Barbecue, Pecan Lodge, and Snow’s BBQ, but the line for Hutchin’s was one of the most unrivaled in length between all attendees.

Understandably or baffling long lines for Franklin and Snow's. Photo by Cody Neathery.

When pointed out, Hutchins and Blackwell both quit cutting for a brief moment, visually taking in the line which had formed in front of them. Even Tim’s father and restaurant namesake, Roy Hutchins, who initially started Roy’s Smokehouse in Princeton, was present to see this achievement. There was a realization of the work and determination that their family had put into this restaurant, even overcoming a recent fire in 2012 which Tim and Dustin both claimed to be one of the “darkest moments of our lives.”

While usually overshadowed by the local favorites of Pecan Lodge and Lockhart Smokehouse, it’s refreshing to see the little guy shine on such a monumental stage like the Texas Monthly BBQ Fest. With Tim Hutchins, the quality of his brisket and ribs were on the forefront of his mind as he carefully tried to pick the best cut for each customer. Not often does one witness this consideration and humble gratitude.

Tim Hutchins - Hutchin's BBQ. Photo by Cody Neathery.

Sure Blackwell may have torn a chunk of flesh from his leg on the side of a trailer thus resulting in a gaping wound that John Lewis wanted to seal with hot coal while I readily stood by with a bottle of moonshine ready to flush out any bacteria. Of course the night was elevated with the arrival of the Stanley's Famous Pit crew when shots were appearing left and right which may have had something to do with us temporarily having no clue where we were early Sunday morning. As expected the next day was a grind, but experiences such as these make stories worth telling.

In hindsight, all the superstitions and luck charms could be tossed to the side. Mostly all it takes are years of preparation to meet one opportunity. And it all begins at the hands of a pitmaster.

Blues and Booze at Stanley's Famous Pit Bar-B-Q

East Texas Blues

400 Miles for one day is typically taxing on most when driving within your home state. Add in a handful of BBQ joints and spending on average one hour and half at each - this can become very exhausting - especially after eating at each stop. I was beaten down to the point that I had to consume a different cow product - so I had ice cream.

After leaving Jefferson with the sun sinking low, Robert, Matt and I drove to the "Rose Capitol of the World," of Tyler, TX for a few beers at Stanley's Famous Pit before shut eye. Stanley's isn't new by a longshot. It is among the oldest "Mom and Pop" restaurants in Tyler and was originally owned by J.D. Stanley. After being established for near 60 years, Nick and Jen Pencis came into the fold in 2000. With some tweaking of the menu and patience - they've propelled Stanley's into the light with their award winning ribs, brisket and popular Brother-in-Law sandwich.

 Photo by Robert Lerma.

Not only being one of my early write-ups (Stanley's Famous Pit Bar-B-Q) and beside the food, the music-friendly atmosphere left an euphoric impression upon this blues aficionado. With East Texas birthing blues legends like Lightnin' Hopkins and the "Father of Texas Blues" Blind Lemon Jefferson, Stanley's transition from restaurant only to a live music venue was a no-brainer for Nick. Beside his impeccable cooking skills is the fact that he is an accomplished musician. Before manning the smoke pit he once manned the drum kit for The Greyhounds. If you dig a soul-shakin' fusion of blues, jazz and funk I would recommend their album "Liberty".

Photo by Robert Lerma.

Nick introduced himself by settling in behind the drum kit on the stage connected to their newly covered deck. Just as comfortable with drumsticks in hand as with a rack of ribs - Nick tied together a seemingly effortless impromptu jam session with the house band. Afterward he walked up with an announcement. "Tomorrow we will be switching wood types. It's called - morning wood." Pleased to meet you too Nick. This kind of humor mixed with his laid back demeanor is why Stanley's motto "Be kind. Have fun," is imperative to their success. One shared Brother-in-Law sandwich and more than a few Summer Beers later - it was time to call it a night.

The meat lab

The next morning we were introduced to a character of sorts and key element of Stanley's rhythm. Pitmaster Jonathan Shaw or simply Shaw, is the meat and potatoes of the smoker to the point where Nick relies on him for consistent production. If Nick were to be absent - not a beat would be skipped as long as Shaw was slingin' wood and meat.

Nick Pencis and Jonathan Shaw. Photo by Robert Lerma.

While there, a constant supply of protein was presented for tasting. From the brisket and ribs to the smoked chicken and adult (or kid) friendly - candied bacon. Any member of Nick's kitchen crew would sample pieces, discuss taste and adjust if needed. A collective quality control if you will. We were lucky enough to try a fairly new menu item being the Friday and Saturday only beef rib and hit the jackpot getting to try the first Mother Clucker chicken sandwich - a joint creation by Chef Jordan Jackson and Shaw. Each bit of food was carefully crafted for success.

Mother Clucker. Photo by Robert Lerma.

If you ever find yourself in Tyler and happen to turn on Beckman Ave. with your windows down and you so happen to hear a blues rift cut through the thick ETX air - there's a good chance Nick is holding rhythm. Allow the green and red neon lights to act as your guide into the parking lot and take a step back into nostalgia. Unwind for a couple hours and enjoy Stanley's BBQ while peeling the label off a cold beer to a Stevie Ray tune. The only rule to follow here is "Be kind. Have fun."

Joseph's Riverport Bar-B-Que

The rebirth of old in Jefferson.

Resting north of Marshall, Texas and west of Caddo Lake - off Highway 59 and crossing the Big Cypress River on a singular bridge - is Jefferson. Once considered the "Riverport to the Southwest," it's now a living historical marker of an era gone bye. After viewing the downtown's French-styled architecture and surrounding Greek-revival homes you will understand why it's known as the only true Louisiana town in Texas. Spend time there and you'll be immersed with a heritage as distinct as you'll find anywhere.

With a dark history of chilling ghost stories from the Grove plantation, and infamous murder of Diamond Bessie Moore, Texas' first murder trial - to the classy Excelsior hotel where 19th century affluent such as railroad mogul Jay Gould, author Oscar Wilde, and President Ulysses S. Grant once made their reservations.

All this due to Jefferson's important role as Texas' 6th largest city during the Steamboat age. Jefferson also offers the natural beauty of the states only natural lake - Caddo Lake - along with swamp and bayous lined with bald Cypress trees and Spanish Moss.

Joseph's Riverport Bar-B-Que is more than a brick structure on the corner of Polk and Lafayette Streets in downtown Jefferson. Propriotership runs in pitmaster Stephen Joseph's family as the building was once a clothing store, pharmacy and Radio Shack. The building itself where Stephen cooks Texas Monthly Top 50 Barbecue was approximately 100 years old before an unfortunate fire reduced it to ash in 2012. Armed with more than a personal goal to rebuild - Stephen understood that the town needed him as much as he needed them.

A long time coming.

Halfway into their 20th year of existence and roots coming from the familiar ETX barbecue chain named Bodacious Bar-B-Que - these roots end with the title having no influence on Stephen's recipes, style, or technique. Not to slander an ETX favorite by any means, it's just Stephen has merely grown into his own after his college beginnings cutting cabbage in the Bodacious kitchen. How does one begin cutting cabbage you might ask? He will answer, "My dad told me to get off the couch and get a job."

Self-admittedly because of cook and ownership responsibility, Stephen never found time to travel to other BBQ joints let alone search the internet for cooking tips. His methods of research begin within the last few years by careful examination of pictures from other barbecue restaurants across the state. With an impressive eye for detail - he attempted to match colors and textures from these pictures to replicate on his briskets and ribs. Smoking hickory, pecan and oak using a Bewley pit, a true artistic approach was taken to help form his masterpiece.

To anyone else this may seem like a tall-tale and something that legends grow from. Maybe so but highly unlikely. After sitting and conversing with Stephen while eating perfectly rendered brisket with a bark that deserves it's own spot in the Top 5 - there'll be no room for doubt let alone any room for dessert. The brisket crust, held together with a balanced measurement of black pepper and salt, delivered a slab of buttery meat surrounded by an immense smoke flavor. This rub equation translated successfully to the ribs though with a hint of sweetness to be discovered.

Asking for his opinion on the ETX customer's appeal for bark-less, flavorless lean brisket - he was clear where he stood about his product. "If it doesn't hit my mark - it's not going on my menu." His story told with sincerity of his current success isn't new to the town of Jefferson. They've known it for years as both parties are intertwined in it. I'm just thankful the town of Jefferson is happy to share Riverport's success with the rest of us.

Bartley's Bar-B-Que...Top 50 worthy?

2 Stars

www.bartleysbbq.com

While reflecting on the three meat plate I just fought through, my phone went off. I picked it up to check what the notification was for and it was my Dictionary application informing me of the "Word of the Day".

Abdicate, verb: to give up or renounce.

What an ironic and fitting choice my app decided to generate as I moved my eyes back to the disappointment before me. Bartley's in Grapevine somehow bested 3 Stacks Smoke and Tap House, Odom's, Off-the-Bone, Railhead and newly opened Slow Bone for a coveted spot on the Texas Monthly Top 50 list. In hindsight, this selection should be abdicated.

Being on the list is a thing of honor. You had better be cooking top notch product because the attention that is about to be bestowed upon you is of the highest pedigree in the oft controversial world of Texas Barbecue. Only in Texas will you find as much passion in a conversation about BBQ as you would sports, politics, and religion. Needless to say...you better have more than your "A game" every stinkin' day.

Texas BBQ Posse and I met at 11:30 am and immediately got to the line before the steady stream of customers hit shortly after. We all requested the three meat combo with me being the only one who got the brisket. I was the guinea pig because after seeing it, no one else wanted it. The less than personable cutter didn't retrieve a complete brisket. Bits and pieces were picked through before he drummed up what appeared to be a piece of the point, cut in half diagonally, then folded over. A few other slices were more traditional to form and displayed for photographic purpose. The hot links were Eckrich and the ribs were their own.

Hickory is their choice of wood although by the taste of the meat...you wouldn't guess any wood was used. A general consensus among the table that the brisket was most likely a day old. Dry, roast beefy, and absent of seasoning. Not even the bark heavy pieces were tolerable. The casing on the Eckrich hot links was snappy but again...commercial sausage. The little bit of hope here were the ribs. Nothing smoky but the flavor had a decent sweetness to them. We had people stagger their visits while we there from 11:30 am to 12:30 pm and nothing fresh was introduced.

We may have found the chink in the chain of the prestigious Texas Monthly list. I feel bad for the stream of travelers who will use the list as a guide for the following years only to be let down. If you want a sub par BBQ experience, head to Big Racks in Grapevine and at least you'll have something worth looking at.

Pecan Lodge

5 Stars

www.pecanlodge.com

With Pecan Lodge, coming off a tie for #2 in the Texas Monthly top 50 list, I had the pleasure of entertaining a guest from Austin who wanted to try some of the D/FW 7 from said list. Matt, is an amateur BBQ lover, having tried some I have not and vice versa. Resembling Daniel Vaughn ever so slightly but less of a Far Side cartoon, he drove up to Dallas on a Thursday morning and we met at Shed #2 in the Farmer's Market. A blind man date with only thing in mind...meat.

I had previously tried Pecan Lodge earlier in the year and would've given it a 3 star rating based on that experience. I asked for fatty brisket but was given lean. It was a bit dry although had one of the better smoked flavors I've tried out of other briskets. The ribs were so-so as I had just experienced some stellar ribs at other local and Austin joints. Some clown in front of me ordered a massive platter eliminating all sausage and depriving me of a handmade link that day. Needless to say...so much for the hype.

With Matt making the trek from Austin, I decided it was time to give Justin Fourton's spell another shot at hypnotizing me as many others have been. We ordered a three meat plate with a mix of fatty and lean brisket, one rib and one handmade link. The okra was of course ordered as this side was a highlight from my first visit. When Matt goes to work, he has pen and pad ready and a scale to measure meat to ensure he doesn't over indulge at each place. I'm quite the opposite of this preparation as I rely on pictures I take to jog my memory. I also like being a member of the clean plate club, leaving no meat behind.

Starting with the sausage, I found this particularly fresh and was pleased that it was handmade rather than ordered elsewhere. I do wish other Dallas BBQ institutes would put the time in for something that Austin, Central Texas and the Hill Country have mastered. We're still learning up in North Texas. The casing was thin and the pork had a fine grind that came apart easily upon eating. There were visible flakes of pepper and with a hue of red to the pork link with mild spice. Next was the brisket. It was exactly what I hoped it would be. The texture was among the best I've experienced. The visual was sexy from the marbling while the juicy fat provided a buttery effect upon mouth entrance. The Mesquite wood gave it a very pronounced smoke flavor with a tart after taste from the Mesquite. I'm not the biggest fan of Mesquite but now I realize why everyone falls head over heels in love with this brisket. The bark was stellar with neither the pepper or salt from the rub over powering one another. The rib was next and on this stop, it erased my previous feelings toward these meat lollipops. This time the heavy pepper was well-balanced with the semi-sweet glaze on the surface. Again the flavors married well without the either rub nor glaze fighting for dibs on your taste buds. The pork came off from the bone with a clean removal that I applaud.

Compared to my first visit, I can finally say that I understand why Pecan Lodge has many loyalists and tied for #2. The okra was still amazing and I would recommend using the tangy sauce as it's kiddie pool. Matt and I left that day with me not giving a damn about using a scale because I wanted to cherish this moment and commit gluttony. It will be interesting to monitor the friendly competition between Pecan Lodge and Lockhart Smokehouse as Dallas' top Q joint. What's even more exciting...there are others not far behind.

John Mueller Meat Company

4 Stars

www.johnmuellermeatco.com

On the spring-like December day that John Mueller made his announcement via Twitter ( kind of ) about his return, I had so happen to dine at "the other place" on South 1st. Was this a sign? Sure. Why not. Although the Tweet was more of a sign of technological bewilderment on his behalf.

After less than a month since the abrupt end to the South 1st location, Mr. Mueller was again back in the saddle, ready to do battle with any one and every one. Ready to retake claim at BBQ King and Tyrant. Mueller's story, which surprisingly hasn't been turned into a drama on Lifetime, added to the anticipation and mystery not only regionally but statewide. One can almost hear Whitesnake's "Here I Go Again" as background music to the continuing saga of the Mueller name.

John Mueller Meat Co. was visited right after Micklethwait Craft Meats during my April mini-tour. My traveling partner, Robert Lerma, had already visited John's place upon it's opening that morning and brought me a pork rib to Micklethwait. It'd have to wait because I wanted to hit up Mueller after Micklethwait. Robert was a good trooper and obliged.

At this point it was early in the afternoon and meat was running out. I purchased the fatty brisket, a link and luckily one end of spare rib was left and I quickly snatched that up as well. We sat down and John walked over to speak with us. After noticing I was taking pictures of the food, John smirked "I didn't cook that for you to take pictures of." Good point. I snapped the sausage and it bled grease. It was a solid piece of meat and John Lewis took very good notes while previously under Mueller. When the brisket was served, it was steaming hot but already falling apart on it's own. This unfortunately caused it to dry a bit. It definitely provided hints of the Post Oak but also hints of less flavorful bites. The bark was pretty on point though partly dry as well. Lastly was the lone rib end. The heavy pepper and honey glaze made this one of the best ribs I've had.

By this time, Robert and I had struck up a BBQ heavy conversation with our picnic table neighbors who hailed from Los Angeles. They had made the pilgrimage to Austin for the Food and Wine Festival taking place that very weekend. We then asked what they do and the reply was restaurants, one in particular titled "Animal." I had just caught up on the previous Hell's Kitchen episode the day before and recognized Jon Shook, Owner and Executive Chef of Animal, as appearing on the show. A nice conversation ensued with their final question, "If we had one Austin BBQ joint to visit, which would it be?" Our answer will not be revealed but it was not Franklin's.

With my second meal of the day complete, I left with a different perspective of John Mueller. Not so much was the ass every one bemoans of but a man who is very personable though with slight elusiveness, though I'm not here to judge people. Just their food. While the sausage rocked, the brisket was not 100% on this day. Hours later I undoubtedly confirmed the rib statement while digging into the leftovers from Robert while casually strolling through my hotel and past amused ( or disgusted ) guests. I believe they were either jealous or semi-aroused by the seducing sounds coming from my direction.

Off the Bone Barbeque

4 Stars

http://www.offthebonebarbeque.com

For years this place found on the industrial stretch of South Lamar has caught my eye. Not only because of the BBQ but because of it's home. Located in what appears to be an old gas station or possible corner store of an era gone by, you can't find too many nostalgic buildings still occupied (if Dallas hasn't torn them down yet). After deciding to begin work on South Dallas BBQ joints choosing Off the Bone wasn't a difficult decision at all.

A heavy drift of pecan smoke flowed through the air and I had arrived right before others so the expectations were high. Off the Bone has been voted "Best in Dallas" so this added to the allure. Framed pictures inside note the famous who have entered this joint throughout the years of it's existence. Walking into the ordering counter you will notice employees to your right prepping food and tucked behind them a J&R smoker.

After being inquisitive about the menu you may want to watch out on the pricing. I initially asked for my standard of a three meat plate with nothing more. This came to a whopping $20 plus dollars. How so? Well they were charging me sandwich meat prices and this would've been without sides. Ok let's back the word train up and start again. I asked about the sausage to see if this would be worth it and bingo...Hillshire Farms. Nope. Ok scratch that order and I'll take the two meat combo with ribs, lean brisket with bark and minimal fat (trying to watch my health now) and the Summer Cool Cole Slaw and Southern Potato Salad. I failed to make sure sauce was on the side.

The plate was delivered and as you notice above they do serve sauce on it. Fortunately for me there was enough naked meat that I could make a substantial judgment on the brisket. The meat was outstanding. It was tender, moist enough with minimal fat, crust was perfect and the pecan smoked flavor sealed the deal. I quickly began scraping off the remaining sauce. The ribs met the same unfortunate fate with a sauce bath as well. I worked my way around it and found rather pleasant tasting ribs minus the pecan smoke flavoring. With hints of cayenne and pepper the rib meat came off with a slight tug and melted in my mouth. Both sides were among the best I've came across.

On the fence of 3 and 4 stars I opted with 4. I'm beginning to realize that just because ribs don't have bark or the smokey flavor everyone thinks should exist doesn't mean they suck. Stanley's Famous has won best ribs in Texas before and they're just damn good ribs. You won't find a heavy smoke flavor to them or a sweet sticky crust. Off the Bone's ribs are done their way like it or not. The brisket rivaled Pecan Lodge on this day.

I want to challenge Off the Bone. First, please look into local handmade sausage and ditch the Hillshire Farm. This could separate you from many others. You have the quality product needed which brings me to my second request. Serve the sauce on the side. Let the meat stand on it's own and there will be no dissatisfaction.

Virgie's Bar-B-Que

4 Stars

http://www.virgiesbbq.com/

On business in Houston back in December, I wanted to knock out some coastal BBQ joints. This was my first BBQ joint of the day with Pizzitola's being visited right after. The neighborhood I found Virgie's in seemed sketchy...a good sign. I hit the small lot right before lunch with a generous smell of smoke infiltrating my nostrils. As mentioned, I have been visiting legendary Texas BBQ joints since 2006 but have never considered myself a blogger or meat reviewer. Being an amateur and only starting to really care to learn great BBQ, I didn't ask what type of wood for smoking, the brand of smoker used, a view of the pit, questions about the sausage, rub and seasonings, etc. I was simply letting my taste buds guide me.

The service was extraordinarily friendly as I believe they are truly appreciative of the business. A nice change and definitely personable approach from the employees. I ordered the meat sampler plate as shown above. This was the lean brisket with a nice 1/4 smoke ring and crust surrounding the beef. The smoke flavor was pleasurable and the brisket actually reminded me of what I found at Pecan Lodge the day I visited. It was how brisket should taste with not one hint of roast flavor. The sausage was exceptionally well flavored with red and black pepper presenting a minimal spicy kick. I couldn't test the snap but the casing wasn't spongy at all. The ribs were last and looked as if God had personally plucked them from Adam's side himself. Beautiful outside crust, thick meat and a pink hue from the smoke. Open mouth, insert rib, and oops...tough and chewy. Damn. So close to perfection. The taste was great but these were not moist at all. I wouldn't deem them dry but they were rather difficult to eat off the bone. I believe this to be a flaw and would like a return visit.

All in all this was solid BBQ. I was on the verge of 3 stars but I truly believe the ribs may have woke up on the wrong side of the smoker. After further research the wood is oak and the pitmaster knows just how to use it. It's a shame that older BBQ joints around the state still can't figure out the science of proper wood usage to attain a healthy smoke flavor.

Schoepf's Old Time Pit Bar-Be-Que

1 Star

This was my first repeat visit and I looked to Schoepf's to do two things for me. Redeem themselves after my first visit in July 2011 and deliver the great BBQ that has them featured in numerous national and local publications. It was my birthday and I had to pull the BBQ birthday trigger. After getting my pants set on fire by Stiles Swith and Lambert's in Austin...it'd be nice to wrap up the week on a central Texas BBQ high note followed by whiskey that evening. Unfortunately every birthday wish doesn't come true.

Let's start in July 2011...Schoepf's had been on my agenda for a long time and the opportunity presented itself to eat there after a river trip with some buddies. Needless to say we were not impressed with what we had. Fast forward to now, cross my fingers and surely that day in July was just a fluke.

I pulled into a decently busy parking lot close to 1 pm. First thing I noticed there wasn't a heavy smell of smoke resonating through the air. Granted it was windy but even when I walked up closer and checked out the pits...nothing. Ok, so maybe the smokers were done for the day. Walked into the ordering line and ordered my standard with jalapeno cheese sausage. The sides I ordered were the cucumber salad, potato salad, and jalapeno cornbread. The Atkins diet is good and all but man cannot live on meat alone. I think that's what I read in the Bible.

I went straight for the sausage and the cheese oozed from the center. It was good but honestly too overwhelming. The ribs had flavor from the salt and pepper but other than that...I was fighting a losing battle taking the meat off the bones with my teeth. Probably resembling an old man trying to bite into an apple...without his dentures. By far the toughest ribs to date. The fatty brisket was served with a lack of bark and smoke. Roast. I would imagine most BBQ joints would taste some of their meat before serving but maybe I'm naive about that. You can see a faint ring on both ribs and brisket but it's just that...faint. Jalapeno cornbread was good!

After this being my first repeat visit on a BBQ joint and having bad experiences both times...I can't find myself recommending it to anyone. I'm sure this would be excellent to some but I wonder about those journalists and food critics who have written them up numerous times. I've read Yelp reviews giving them 4 and 5 stars after bitching about the meat but because the sides are good. Huh? Only trust the 1 stars for those Arm Chair reviewers are not lost in space. Thank Jesus for the whiskey.

Lambert's Downtown Barbeque

5 Stars

I had my mind made up for Lambert's my first night in Austin but unfortunately a large group of people decided that a private party was more important than me getting my BBQ needs met. No loss because Stiles Switch fulfilled that emptiness.

The next day I found my way to Lambert's which is located in the restored Schneider Brothers historic building off 2nd street. I have a slight obsession with history and seeing historic buildings preserved so any chance to see the inside of one is a plus for me.

I sat at the bar and fortunately seated next to me was an employee who had just got off work and was enjoying a cold beer or three. Needless to say, great conversation ensued as he informed me of how the kitchen was run. I ordered the two meat plate with the Brown Sugar and Coffee rubbed natural brisket and the Maple and Coriander crusted natural pork ribs. Sides were baked mac and cheese and jicama and carrot slaw. I've been reading about coffee rubs being used on meat so I was excited to have the opportunity to try this. It did not disappoint. The fat was well rendered, moist throughout, with a great tasting bark. I dug into the ribs which delivered a burst of flavors. Notably the maple, a sweet orange glaze, crushed red pepper and coriander (which is cilantro).  Meat was tender, rendered, easy off the bone and the nice pink from the smoke. As reported by the employee, no salt or black pepper is used. The sides were excellent as well.

After this onslaught of flavor, I regretted not trying their homemade jalapeno link. Next time for sure. Their wood of choice is Oak and they know how to use it to maximize the taste. They do not have just one pitmaster but two executive chefs and a handful of sous chefs...all with unique culinary backgrounds who work together to ensure the quality is present. I'd say this concoction works well and I look forward to a return visit for their "fancy bbq".

Meshack's Bar-Be-Que Shack

3 Stars

After eating unique BBQ at Mamma and Pappa B's, worse than mediocre BBQ at Michna's (both in Waco) and good but not great BBQ from Pecan Lodge this past week, I was cashed. There were no more BBQ cravings within me. I needed a breather. Until I was summoned by my cousin who equally knows a great deal about BBQ and has tackled most of the notable in the state.

Ok, fine...where to? Meshack's was the place. This got my attention as I've heard about it for years and its always been highly reveled for Dallas BBQ...a city not widely known for good meat.

A couple of pointers for new visitors. You walk up to a window and order and wait. No tables to sit down. Parking lot has either been under construction for 20 years or the completion doesn't really matter. Also, they are no longer cash only.

Three meat plate would work on this chilly day. One issue I had starting off was they soaked all meat in sauce. What the hell? I keep running into this issue...this isn't Memphis. I'll start making it a point to say no sauce. First timers...keep this in mind. Beside that, there was enough meat not covered in sauce I felt I could give a proper review. The sausage, which apparently is from Smokey Denmark's, had a spicier kick than some links I've had. It was actually very good and the ground meat within was packed well so when you open the link it doesn't crumble out. The ribs were well smoked, seasoned perfectly and came off the bone. I believe my cousin had some that weren't as easy but no major issue. So far so good. Next was fatty brisket with bark. Got the semi-fatty brisket...but where's the crust? So the meat was moist, pulled apart easily, semi-fatty but no bark. My cousin had a bit more crust on his but nothing consistent. Next major issue...no smoky flavor. I had Pecan Lodge the day before and their smoky flavor was spot on as well as the bark amount. If only Meshack's brisket spent another hour or so in the smoker, this could remedy that issue. I typically don't do sides but I'm a sucker for potato salad and completely obliterated theirs.

All in all, a good experience. Be prepared to either eat in your car or on a tailgate. I will go back in hopes that the brisket will have more smoke. Do yourself a favor and stand next to the ventilator from the wood burning furnace and inhale. Smelling like smoke, you may have a tough time keeping the honeys off ya...especially the thick ones.

Stanley's Famous Pit Bar-B-Q

5 Stars

Having never heard of Stanley's Famous Pit Bar-B-Q before I attended Meat Fight 2012...I went into this joint with no prior knowledge, no reviews read, and no word of mouth from anyone. Who were they? What are they known for? I don't fear the unknown but with BBQ...you're asking for indigestion problems if you're not careful. Pitmaster Nick Pencis was asked to judge Meat Fight, something must be right.

After Meat Fight I forgot about Stanley's or their location. I found myself in Tyler for business this past Wednesday. I just so happen to be driving along Beckham toward the hospitals and after scoping other Q joints and taco stands - I saw the neon sign of Stanley's. Almost like the rays of Heaven from a BBQ Jesus who lead me here and opened my eyes. I had a new purpose that day.

I arrived at 1:40 pm...folks were still coming in although the lines I have now read about weren't in existence. Thank ya BBQ Jesus for I had to head to Longview soon after. From outside appearance and interior, this place would fit in Austin or Dallas. John Lee Hooker's thump humming overhead with blues music posters and random stickers littered along the walls - perfect. Now would the meat match the atmosphere?

Yes.

By now anyone who reads these reviews are familiar with what I order...my standard so to speak. Quarter pound of brisket (fatty with bark) or burnt ends, 2 ribs and link of sausage. The sausage was the hot link. It was provided from the local meat market so I had faith. Good snap but nothing over the top special. Pretty indifferent about it although a good flavor. Next I decided to dissect the brisket. The fat was well rendered throughout thus providing a moist product. Moist is good. If not moist, you may have to use the sauce as a lube. I'm glad this wasn't the case. Brief explanation of bark is the coming together of the sugars, rub and protein from the meat while in the smoker. It essentially seals the juices. Lastly were the ribs. They were meaty and came covered with a sauce which I generally frown upon. I dug into these meaty morsels and had a "q-gasm". Heavenly. They were pink throughout and came off the bone with ease. Dry rubbed with this unique sauce that after research...no clue what goes in it. Hints of heat and sweetness. These were special.

It was a memorable experience. After I did my homework, come to find out...they've won best ribs in Texas within the last few years. A couple times. Stanley's has been around for a bit...but has apparently had a renaissance of sorts. It was good going into a place with no previous knowledge.

Five stars because the brisket and ribs made up for the generic sausage...throw in the blues music and you have a deal. Don't worry...I've some bad reviews to complete but I've hit a good streak this week.

Lockhart Smokehouse

 

Updated: 5 Stars ( May 2013 )

www.lockhartsmokehouse.com

Finally making a return trip to Lockhart Smokehouse and having tried more joints around the state and the D/FW locale, I must give credit where credit is due. Unlike my previous visit and review, this time the ribs were absolutely perfect. You could pull the meat right off and warm your face from the heat hidden beneath. The fatty brisket was warm, moist and melted easily upon entering my pie hole. No need for forks or teeth. The lean brisket came apart with precision right along the fine lines of the meat. Both barks were well peppered and salted and the burnt ends ordered were so good it was unfair. If I had tear ducts, you would've witnessed my inconsolable crying of joy. Standing at the bar, with greasy hands covering my face whilst having a divine moment of Holy Beef. If overturning tables in celebratory fashion were allowed, tables overturned you would've found.

One amends that could be made was the time of day between both stops. My first visit was at 2 pm...this visit was right before noon. Should that matter? No, but it may have been a difference maker. The only hang-up I have (and I actually mentioned this in my first review but played the devil's advocate) are the prices. Because of the price complaints from others, I paid particular attention when ordering the meats. Had what I ordered been precisely cut and weighed, it should've come out to around $30 at most...but somehow, this meal wound up at $50. I ordered a 1/4 lb. of brisket (cost is $7.5/lb.) however, this somehow resulted in $10. I notice other joints making attempts to keep it as close as possible, usually within a dollar, and I would like to see Lockhart work on this. That being my only concern, between Pecan Lodge and Lockhart Smokehouse...I'm going with Smokehouse. See below...happy rib face.

 

4 Stars ( Jan 2013 )

Lockhart Smokehouse has gained attention rather quickly for a few reasons. The association with Kreuz Market (hence the name Lockhart), being seen on BBQ Pitmaster's, and for being a solid Que joint in Dallas. It was time that I knocked this off my local list. Which has taken longer to complete than the statewide list.

We arrived around 2 pm, after the lunch rush though there was still a good crowd within. I was worried about the meat...would I get fresh being a bit later in the day or dry and tough? That was a chance I was willing to take. The theme inside is rustic Texas Que joint playing off the exposed brick décor you would find in Smitty's or Luling City Market. Heading past the bar to the ordering line you will see the wall of accolades and publication mentions, which is impressive considering it's existence of near 2 years.

The menu is self-explanatory, which helps the most amateur BBQ fan. If you're not sure, ask for a sample. They will oblige. We ordered 1/2 lb. of brisket with burnt ends, 3 ribs, one regular link, and deviled brisket eggs. Total came to about $30 which may be a bit pricey to some but hey...you pay to eat well. Go to Dickey's if you don't like it. No complaints. The staff which included Pit Guru, Will Fleischman, was very friendly. We were promised entertainment from the bartender. So that's right where we headed.

I quickly ignored making a trip to the sauce stand and dug into the sausage. It was perfect. Snapped well, was full within casing, didn't fall apart in your hand. Flavor delivered mild black pepper. Which was a bit opposite of La Barbecue's sausage, albeit great flavor for theirs as well. Luckily my friend hit the sauce stand and I'm glad she did. I did dip a couple bites of sausage into the sauce. A nice sweet, smoky, and peppered flavor. Not too thin and not too thick. I next dug into the rib. Salt and pepper were the right amount with peppercorn scattered about and it did come off the bone easily. Rib tips were still on and I found these to be a bit tough but the flavor was still solid. Occasionally I bit into a hint of something sweet...possible layer of honey? I'll need confirmation which means another couple ribs and the Pit Guru's secret. The brisket was moist but dryer than what I wanted but the burnt end flavor made amends. A lot of bark and nice smoke ring though. I could blame this as I worked backwards thus leaving the brisket exposed to room temperature and having time to dry. I could've ask for more fat. Next time, I'll try the clod. Deviled brisket eggs...speechless. The smoky flavor resonated well on all meat products.

All in all, I will return. I will recommend. Daniel, the bartender, a jolly fellow who doesn't mind talking jalapenos and stomach ulcers will keep you entertained as promised. I've been told he can dance on the bar.

La Barbeque

5 Stars

I've been to many of the oldest and finest Q joints in Texas. Franklin and Pecan Lodge are still on the agenda but those are quite newer. Anyhow, the Mueller name is infamously associated with BBQ. Not only in Texas but nationwide.

After being turned away at Franklin, I was told by a reliable source to head over to JMueller BBQ. It'd been open roughly a year now but has received amazing reviews. I decided yes and my backup plan was Stiles. I got to JMueller only to discover...it was now La Barbeque. Without going into the semantics, John was ousted and his sister LeeAnn took over. This was a remarkably easy transition considering who was manning the pit. John Lewis. Former Franklin pitboss. Not only being mentored by Franklin (who use to work under Mueller) Lewis also learned from Mueller.

When I arrived, they were already out of pulled pork. No biggie to me because I focus on brisket, pork ribs, and sausage. I barely made it in time for the brisket and sausage. I ordered a 1/4 lb. of brisket from the end. Burnt ends were perfect. The amount of fat rang true. I also picked up 2 ribs though Lewis gave me one extra. These had a slightly sweet favor and glistened on the surface. The meat came off the bone with about as much resistance as Santa Anna's army at San Jacinto. And lastly...ah the sausage. Hand made. Hot gut. Grease running down my hand. Perfect flavor with a healthy mix of spice and cheese. The snap wasn't perfect but good enough. All washed down with a Big Red. The BBQ sauces both sweet and tangy were soaked up with a piece of bread. Not bad.

All in all, among the best. Daniel Vaughn brought Anthony Bourdain here when it was still under Mueller and although I didn't eat the Q being put out then, I can imagine nothing or very little change to the method took place when Mueller was dismissed. To those complaining about price...get over it. It's BBQ and done well. If you want a McRib...head to McDonald's.

If you can't get through Franklin's door...do yourself a favor, come here first. Or second. Always have a BBQ backup plan. Always.