Barbecue without a wait - Austin, Texas.

Spring is around the corner and many folk will find themselves making a pilgrimage to Austin or at least a pit stop on their way to one of the state’s many natural water sources. Regardless of why you want to go down south and get weird, nobody has time to spare while on vacation – especially in lines.

When it comes to lines, we scoff; cursing those ahead of us for taking too long, since it’s their fault they arrived earlier than us. Our choices are to leave or continue practicing half-assed patience.

Admittedly, there’s a certain sense of entitlement married with accomplishment when we are the ones everyone else is waiting for. You always know that everyone else is now cursing you but you pretend to not notice. You’ve waited your turn and couldn't care less if anyone else gets theirs.

This may not seem as big of a deal when it comes to gas station lines or the drive-thru at Starbucks because luckily for every American, there’s another gas station down the road and three Starbucks before that. However, when it comes to getting your smoked meat fix, a line often determines our perception. Although great taste and long lines can be synonymous, remember kids – looks can be deceiving.

Bragging about how you braved a line for hours just to eat somewhere doesn’t gain you any life points and in fact, makes you seem as awesome as a Galveston postcard from the 80’s. How about trying somewhere new and getting your fix – without a wait. With that being said, here’s a short list for your convenience.

Valentina’s Tex Mex BBQ – 600 W. 6^th St. (Behind Star Bar). Open 5 pm Mon & Tues, Lunch/Dinner only Wed through Fri and all day Sat and Sun.

When coming to this food trailer, toss any stereotypes of how Texas barbecue should be served out the window. While the meat is smoked in the traditional manner, the Tex Mex angle comes from how the food is served. The simple menu is divided into two sections; Tex and Mex. Under the Tex you have sandwiches loaded with your meat of choice while under the Mex, you will find the same meat, though snuggled in a tortilla, handmade onsite. Order the smoked brisket taco with guacamole and tomato Serrano salsa and the smoked carnitas taco that includes caramelized onions, cilantro and a tomatillo habanero salsa, which is quite mild. At this point, you’ll forever forget those barbecue stereotypes.

Micklethwait Craft Meats – 1309 Rosewood Ave. (East Austin). Open Wed through Sat, 11 am - 3pm & 4:30 - 8pm. Sun 11 am – 3 pm.

Smartly located down the street from Franklin Barbecue, this canvas of a trailer has emerged from the shadow of the aforementioned top barbecue joint of the world. Here you will not only find a near perfect plate of smoked meat but some of the best sides to accompany a barbecue joint. Owner/Pit Master Tom Micklethwait is also crafty in the world of handmade sausage. One day he may concoct pork belly Andouille and the next, Thai sausage. His sausages are true to the word artisanal. Order the three meat plate for $14 and allow Tom’s meat to surprise you.

La Barbecue – 1200 E. 6^th St. (East Austin). Open Wed – Sun, 11 am until sold out.

If you must deal with any line, here’s a place worth waiting for. Having recently moved from their location on South 1st, the line isn’t a nightmare though it can be a consistently long at times. No fear – with live music on the weekends and free beer, this wait is the most tolerable of them all. My recommendation here is to purchase a handmade link of Pit Master John Lewis’s all beef sausage, along with the well seasoned pork ribs and a thick slice of fatty brisket. If you're wise, order one succulent beef rib and take it to go. Big Red is an encouraged liquid partner to your meal.

Pro-tip: Call ahead the day before or day of, walk past the line while getting cursed and pick up your order. That’s something worth bragging about.

Kerlin BBQ – 1700 E. Cesar Chavez (East Austin). Open Wed through Sun, 11 am through 3 pm or sold out.

Recently opened Kerlin BBQ has made a ripple in the Austin barbecue scene. Of course they have the whole no line thing but once you try Bill Kerlin’s brisket and ribs, you’ll be scratching your head as to why there isn’t a line. Being in close proximity to other barbecue joints with a hellish DMV style line, Kerlin BBQ is smoking superb meat worth skipping a line for. Try one slice of lean and one slice of moist with the ribs. Ask for extra pickles to dip  in the BBQ sauce and hum along with the music of Waylon Jennings.

Freedmen’s Bar – 2402 San Gabriel St. (West Campus). Open Tues through Sat, 11 am – 12 am. Brunch starting at 11 am on Sunday.

Evan LeRoy has seemingly mastered the craft of not only smoked meat but smoked food overall. After tasting his barbecue, one may think that a pit master, decades older, is cooking but he has accomplished this level of prowess while only in his mid-20’s. Although open for lunch with great specials, the historic building which houses the restaurant, truly comes to life upon dusk. Order the Holy Trinity with smoked beats and grilled cabbage slaw while sitting in the patio under strands of party bulbs. After tossing back a cocktail of your choosing, finish the night off with smoked banana pudding. All this and no line.

Texas Monthly BBQ Fest by way of Hutchin's BBQ.

It’s fairly safe to claim the Texas Monthly BBQ Festival held every November in Austin is the Christmas of smoked meat. Only the best barbecue joints in the world (which so happen to ALL lie within Texas’ borders) receive invites and tickets sell out within minutes of being electronically released. For those who are technologically challenged, a walk up option was available with food not necessarily being guaranteed.

Every ticket purchaser should leave fat from the food and happy from the food and beer. If one did not waddle away 10 lbs. heavier while in an intense state of transcendent happiness combined with an overwhelming sense of contentment – you clearly screwed up somehow.

Photo by Cody Neathery.

Five of the 21 restaurants in attendance were from Dallas-Ft. Worth or the surrounding area, with all serving stellar cuts of brisket, ribs and sausage. The line-up included Dallas’ Pecan Lodge and Lockhart Smokehouse, Ft. Worth’s Cousin’s BBQ, McKinney’s Hutchin’s BBQ, and Stanley’s Famous Pit out of Tyler. Unfortunately several other local nominees didn’t attend but from previous year’s festivals – this was a strong showing and something for north Texas to celebrate.

As a man who often gets pulled into conversations relating to the best barbecue around, one would be surprised the amount of locals who still have not tried Pecan Lodge even though they have heard the buzz surrounding them. Most don’t even know its location. Let that sink in for a bit. We’re talking about the #2 joint in the world. Dallas, wake up. It’s located in your backyard. To the mayor of Dallas – wake up because you could potentially lose them. Asinine right!?

Imagine being the owner of a top ranked joint in Texas located roughly 30 miles north of Dallas but receiving not much more recognition than what was published from Texas Monthly back in May. Not a mere mention of congratulations from its hometown that was itself, listed as Money Magazine’s number 5 town in America as a ‘Best Place to Live.’ That being said, don’t you think their hometown would have a greater appreciation and respect for a national list?

Hello McKinney, Texas – have you met what is one of the best barbecue restaurants in Texas – or in the world? If not, Hutchin’s BBQ rests conveniently near your much publicized historic square which draws thousands of tourists annually. That seems to me that there is some missed opportunity in this equation or maybe someone in the tourism department has become complacent.

Dustin Blackwell - Hutchin's BBQ. Photo by Cody Neathery.

Arriving Saturday afternoon in Austin, the ultimate barbecue camp was constructed in the backyard-style parking lot where Pitmaster John Lewis churns out some of the most admirable protein from a food trailer known as La Barbecue. An abundance of fold out chairs, unwavering amount of beer and the congregation of new and old friends alike, you couldn’t ask for a better way to spend a Saturday.

Adding to the mystique of the soft smoke billowing out of the smokestacks and next door to La Barbecue, is a small single room store geared toward the religion of Santeria. Walking myself over with child-like curiosity or maybe spiritually guided by whiskey – there inside were shelves of religious statues, candles and bottles of magical potion. Ironically enough, some find barbecue to be a religious experience with hints of superstition and luck but the real magic begins at the hands of the pitmasters.

Hutchin's BBQ rib. Photo by Cody Neathery.

On Sunday, I had the privilege of attending the fourth annual Texas Monthly BBQ Fest as a guest of Hutchin’s BBQ. Tim Hutchin and long-time best friend, Dustin Blackwell, have turned this restaurant, established in 1978, into a barbecue mecca. The consistency they brought to the Fest bested some of the state’s more highly rated barbecue joints and it showed by the constant demand from the public.

You’re always going to have an understandably or baffling (however waiting three hours rubs you) long line for the usual suspects like Franklin Barbecue, Pecan Lodge, and Snow’s BBQ, but the line for Hutchin’s was one of the most unrivaled in length between all attendees.

Understandably or baffling long lines for Franklin and Snow's. Photo by Cody Neathery.

When pointed out, Hutchins and Blackwell both quit cutting for a brief moment, visually taking in the line which had formed in front of them. Even Tim’s father and restaurant namesake, Roy Hutchins, who initially started Roy’s Smokehouse in Princeton, was present to see this achievement. There was a realization of the work and determination that their family had put into this restaurant, even overcoming a recent fire in 2012 which Tim and Dustin both claimed to be one of the “darkest moments of our lives.”

While usually overshadowed by the local favorites of Pecan Lodge and Lockhart Smokehouse, it’s refreshing to see the little guy shine on such a monumental stage like the Texas Monthly BBQ Fest. With Tim Hutchins, the quality of his brisket and ribs were on the forefront of his mind as he carefully tried to pick the best cut for each customer. Not often does one witness this consideration and humble gratitude.

Tim Hutchins - Hutchin's BBQ. Photo by Cody Neathery.

Sure Blackwell may have torn a chunk of flesh from his leg on the side of a trailer thus resulting in a gaping wound that John Lewis wanted to seal with hot coal while I readily stood by with a bottle of moonshine ready to flush out any bacteria. Of course the night was elevated with the arrival of the Stanley's Famous Pit crew when shots were appearing left and right which may have had something to do with us temporarily having no clue where we were early Sunday morning. As expected the next day was a grind, but experiences such as these make stories worth telling.

In hindsight, all the superstitions and luck charms could be tossed to the side. Mostly all it takes are years of preparation to meet one opportunity. And it all begins at the hands of a pitmaster.

John Mueller Meat Company

4 Stars

www.johnmuellermeatco.com

On the spring-like December day that John Mueller made his announcement via Twitter ( kind of ) about his return, I had so happen to dine at "the other place" on South 1st. Was this a sign? Sure. Why not. Although the Tweet was more of a sign of technological bewilderment on his behalf.

After less than a month since the abrupt end to the South 1st location, Mr. Mueller was again back in the saddle, ready to do battle with any one and every one. Ready to retake claim at BBQ King and Tyrant. Mueller's story, which surprisingly hasn't been turned into a drama on Lifetime, added to the anticipation and mystery not only regionally but statewide. One can almost hear Whitesnake's "Here I Go Again" as background music to the continuing saga of the Mueller name.

John Mueller Meat Co. was visited right after Micklethwait Craft Meats during my April mini-tour. My traveling partner, Robert Lerma, had already visited John's place upon it's opening that morning and brought me a pork rib to Micklethwait. It'd have to wait because I wanted to hit up Mueller after Micklethwait. Robert was a good trooper and obliged.

At this point it was early in the afternoon and meat was running out. I purchased the fatty brisket, a link and luckily one end of spare rib was left and I quickly snatched that up as well. We sat down and John walked over to speak with us. After noticing I was taking pictures of the food, John smirked "I didn't cook that for you to take pictures of." Good point. I snapped the sausage and it bled grease. It was a solid piece of meat and John Lewis took very good notes while previously under Mueller. When the brisket was served, it was steaming hot but already falling apart on it's own. This unfortunately caused it to dry a bit. It definitely provided hints of the Post Oak but also hints of less flavorful bites. The bark was pretty on point though partly dry as well. Lastly was the lone rib end. The heavy pepper and honey glaze made this one of the best ribs I've had.

By this time, Robert and I had struck up a BBQ heavy conversation with our picnic table neighbors who hailed from Los Angeles. They had made the pilgrimage to Austin for the Food and Wine Festival taking place that very weekend. We then asked what they do and the reply was restaurants, one in particular titled "Animal." I had just caught up on the previous Hell's Kitchen episode the day before and recognized Jon Shook, Owner and Executive Chef of Animal, as appearing on the show. A nice conversation ensued with their final question, "If we had one Austin BBQ joint to visit, which would it be?" Our answer will not be revealed but it was not Franklin's.

With my second meal of the day complete, I left with a different perspective of John Mueller. Not so much was the ass every one bemoans of but a man who is very personable though with slight elusiveness, though I'm not here to judge people. Just their food. While the sausage rocked, the brisket was not 100% on this day. Hours later I undoubtedly confirmed the rib statement while digging into the leftovers from Robert while casually strolling through my hotel and past amused ( or disgusted ) guests. I believe they were either jealous or semi-aroused by the seducing sounds coming from my direction.

Micklethwait Craft Meats

3 Stars

Attempting to keep up with the blossoming Barbecue scene in Austin I actually visited the newly opened Micklethwait Craft Meats (MCM) in February. After driving past an unruly line of business type, hipsters, and tourists at Franklin, I was eager to be among the first BBQ fans to try Craft Meats. Somewhat regrettably, I left upon learning that brisket was only served at dinner and when visiting a BBQ joint, I do my best to tackle the Texas Trifecta in one sitting. No worries as plans to return would be executed soon enough.

Micklethwait Craft Meats took to the trailer / food truck / BBQ scene by storm with almost immediate praise of the quality. Sometime in March, news of brisket being sold for lunch was announced as the response to his Texas Post Oak brisket was high across the board. Supply, meet demand. My opportunity for a return visit surfaced toward the end of April and MCM was on the agenda. The night before my Craft Meats visit, I was floored by Freedmen's and literally floored by an unhealthy abundance of Mescal from Clive Bar, where I swore I found Waldo. Oh, the next day would be tough.  

A local Austin photographer, Robert Lerma, met me and a female companion at Craft Meats to offer his musings as well. His travels have taken him to many of the finest Texas BBQ joints while generating photographs along the way. I was delighted at the visual of the meat displayed in the trailer and even more so meeting Tom Micklethwait. For the sides, slaw and jalapeno cheese grits were the culprits. After living in Mississippi, I quickly became a sucker for grits and rarely turn down a chance to order them.

Robert and I, as well as the female companion whose opinion that "trailer BBQ does not sound good and there's no way I'd ever eat BBQ from a trailer"...sat down at the picnic table. After taking a bite myself, I quickly fed her the Thai sausage and...dun dun dun, "Oh wow, I usually don't eat sausage but this is some of the best I've had." It was agreed that the sausage was superb and just the amount of spice I'd expect. The ribs, although a bit shy on the meat portion, were enjoyed equally as they had the mark of Central Texas style with salt, pepper, and peppercorn. Where they lacked in meat, they settled for with flavor. Here's where my visit took another turn. The brisket. It was dry, flavor-less of the Texas Post Oak, and the bark was crisp to the point it flaked off with an ashy texture. I've seen other patron's pictures of the brisket where it glistened nicely but this was not my experience.

While I would've liked adding another star or two, I weigh brisket a bit heavier than sausage and ribs. I don't doubt that Tom can deliver a great brisket but being new to serving at lunch, there may be some room for error. With continued growth and a promising buzz, lines from Franklin will begin to find their way a couple of blocks east to Micklethwait Craft Meats. Recently I posted this line as a reply to a comment on the Texas BBQ Posse blog which I find fitting for here and many Q joints alike:

"I will return again only because there is so much hype but due to finances, I can't spread myself too thin with revisiting the same joints repeatedly such as the Posse or Vaughn. I have to base on one time experiences which consistency can always vary with each visit and product judged differently by each individual." This will not be my last visit to the artsy yellow trailer on Rosewood Ave.

Freedmen's Bar

5 Stars

http://www.freedmensbar.com/

In 1869, this beautiful structure where Freedmen's is located, was built by forner slave George Franklin. George was on the forefront of developing an area known as Wheatville located north of Austin. The area itself was named after James Wheat, a freed slave from Arkansas who brought his family here in 1867. This became the first African-American community in Austin after the Civil War and over the years the building served as several different businesses including a church, residence and store. It is now historically labeled as the Franzetti store.

Researching this history I was eager to step foot into Freedmen's Bar which was named out of respect to the community's historical importance of Austin. What brought my attention to Freedmen's was the pitmaster. Evan LeRoy politely called out the Texas BBQ Posse on their overlooking of his BBQ during one of their recent tours. Being outspoken and slightly over-confident myself at times, it struck a harp chord with me. Either this guy is cocky or he may just have something up his sleeve.

With a somewhat planned and somewhat impromptu trip to Austin, I communicated back and forth with Evan to ensure he was going to be present when I visited. Normally I wouldn't make a big deal over a visit but to be a BBQ disciple, I must visit with the teacher.

Evan's culinary background begin in Texas followed by a stint at Hill Country BBQ Market in New York as their pitmaster. Finding his way back home, he dabbled in tacos out of a food trailer we know as Torchy's and then off to Lambert's for a hot minute before landing as Executive Chef/Pitmaster of Freedmen's Bar. I found Evan to be one of the most humble guys I've met and for his age, he takes his BBQ as personal as a pitmaster of 40 years.

Unlike some gourmet BBQ such as Lambert's, they are all about BBQ and don't venture into any other territory. This was fine by me. I ordered the Holy Trinity plate, rightfully named since I was drinking a damn good Old Fashion in a former church. A personal motto of mine, you always need a reason to repent and I was well on my way. No specifications to my order  were requested as I let Evan work his miracle. What was presented to me was a BBQ masterpiece probably approved by the Pope himself. Pork spare ribs, an equal serving of fatty and lean brisket, handmade sausage and pork belly. Samples of sides were brought as well.

Like a young man with his first girl (awkward moment alert) I didn't know where to start. Brisket won out and it was absolutely perfect. With Evan using Texas Post Oak he hit a homerun. The smoke ring was visible, the meat moist with the fat working well while the bark kept it together. I quickly lowered my head and gave thanks. The sausage consisting of fatty brisket, pork belly, and jalapeno had a great flavor as the ingredients meshed well together delivering a nice spice from the jalapeno. The ribs were majestic. Wonderful amount of salt, pepper, and peppercorn with the meat pulling off from a slight tug. For desert, the pork belly was heavenly. Oh yeah the sides...just order them, especially the smoked beets.

After humming praises to myself while finishing off the second Old Fashion, I then saw the light. I realized if Evan could produce this consistently then there should be no reason Freedmen's is not mentioned in the same discussion as Stiles Switch, la Barbecue, Franklin's and the rest of the booming and quite likely, new BBQ capitol of Texas. Dust off your Bible as Freedman's will have you saying Hallelujah and Amen.

Lambert's Downtown Barbeque

5 Stars

I had my mind made up for Lambert's my first night in Austin but unfortunately a large group of people decided that a private party was more important than me getting my BBQ needs met. No loss because Stiles Switch fulfilled that emptiness.

The next day I found my way to Lambert's which is located in the restored Schneider Brothers historic building off 2nd street. I have a slight obsession with history and seeing historic buildings preserved so any chance to see the inside of one is a plus for me.

I sat at the bar and fortunately seated next to me was an employee who had just got off work and was enjoying a cold beer or three. Needless to say, great conversation ensued as he informed me of how the kitchen was run. I ordered the two meat plate with the Brown Sugar and Coffee rubbed natural brisket and the Maple and Coriander crusted natural pork ribs. Sides were baked mac and cheese and jicama and carrot slaw. I've been reading about coffee rubs being used on meat so I was excited to have the opportunity to try this. It did not disappoint. The fat was well rendered, moist throughout, with a great tasting bark. I dug into the ribs which delivered a burst of flavors. Notably the maple, a sweet orange glaze, crushed red pepper and coriander (which is cilantro).  Meat was tender, rendered, easy off the bone and the nice pink from the smoke. As reported by the employee, no salt or black pepper is used. The sides were excellent as well.

After this onslaught of flavor, I regretted not trying their homemade jalapeno link. Next time for sure. Their wood of choice is Oak and they know how to use it to maximize the taste. They do not have just one pitmaster but two executive chefs and a handful of sous chefs...all with unique culinary backgrounds who work together to ensure the quality is present. I'd say this concoction works well and I look forward to a return visit for their "fancy bbq".

Stiles Switch BBQ and Brew

5 Stars

Stiles Switch was brought to my attention back in December when I was in Austin but opted with La BBQ. Well I wouldn't turn down Stiles this time. It was a bit after 8 pm and going to this place on North Lamar was out of the way from my hotel but I was hungry and they were open late. I had done my research on them and some early reviews were shaky but it seemed that over time...the reviews became better as the negative words did not fall on deaf ears. Apparently repeat customers noticed the quality becoming better which I believe is a good sign for BBQ because as I've been told "great BBQ comes with great humility."

Like a great majority of restaurants, cafes, and bars in Austin, it's in a throw back art deco styled building with the neon sign on the roof for all to see. Any time I walk up to a BBQ joint and smell that smoke, I get excited like a young kid the night before Christmas. Now what you receive the next day dictates the greatness of the holiday as kids are selfish punks and don't just enjoy family time. Joking. The inside of Stiles is pretty cool...wide open dining room, TV's, Austin music memorabilia decorating the walls as well as the Stiles Switch name history. It was also used as the pool hall in the film "Dazed and Confused."

I ordered my standard but chose the Stiles spice sausage as this was a fan favorite. For sides the corn casserole and slaw were calling my name. I sat down and became that creepy guy taking pictures of his food. Which still is weird to me but I'm guilty...obviously. I took the sausage in my hands and popped it. I've never had a link snap this well. The casing was perfect. Friends, this was one of the best sausages I've ate. The meat was ground well and packed tight with flakes of pepper throughout. I could've easily ate another. Next were the ribs which had a red ring and appeared well rendered. I bit in and did the annoying "oh dear Lord, this is good" noise to myself. Cayenne, paprika, salt, pepper, and maybe golden angel tears were used in the rub. Off the bone and moist. Next was the brisket. Solid amount of bark and ring. Fat was well rendered, nice texture, great smoke flavor although a very minor taste of roast but not enough to care. The sauce was original. It was a thinner sauce with heavy pepper and tomato flavors with onions were floating about. It was a compliment to meat that needed no help.

If you're ever asked "why do you eat so much BBQ?" Here is your answer. Finding good BBQ is kinda like women. Go through a lot of pain and let downs but when you find a gem like this...it's worth it.

La Barbeque

5 Stars

I've been to many of the oldest and finest Q joints in Texas. Franklin and Pecan Lodge are still on the agenda but those are quite newer. Anyhow, the Mueller name is infamously associated with BBQ. Not only in Texas but nationwide.

After being turned away at Franklin, I was told by a reliable source to head over to JMueller BBQ. It'd been open roughly a year now but has received amazing reviews. I decided yes and my backup plan was Stiles. I got to JMueller only to discover...it was now La Barbeque. Without going into the semantics, John was ousted and his sister LeeAnn took over. This was a remarkably easy transition considering who was manning the pit. John Lewis. Former Franklin pitboss. Not only being mentored by Franklin (who use to work under Mueller) Lewis also learned from Mueller.

When I arrived, they were already out of pulled pork. No biggie to me because I focus on brisket, pork ribs, and sausage. I barely made it in time for the brisket and sausage. I ordered a 1/4 lb. of brisket from the end. Burnt ends were perfect. The amount of fat rang true. I also picked up 2 ribs though Lewis gave me one extra. These had a slightly sweet favor and glistened on the surface. The meat came off the bone with about as much resistance as Santa Anna's army at San Jacinto. And lastly...ah the sausage. Hand made. Hot gut. Grease running down my hand. Perfect flavor with a healthy mix of spice and cheese. The snap wasn't perfect but good enough. All washed down with a Big Red. The BBQ sauces both sweet and tangy were soaked up with a piece of bread. Not bad.

All in all, among the best. Daniel Vaughn brought Anthony Bourdain here when it was still under Mueller and although I didn't eat the Q being put out then, I can imagine nothing or very little change to the method took place when Mueller was dismissed. To those complaining about price...get over it. It's BBQ and done well. If you want a McRib...head to McDonald's.

If you can't get through Franklin's door...do yourself a favor, come here first. Or second. Always have a BBQ backup plan. Always.