The Blind Butcher of lower Greenville.

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With an endless amount of steakhouses in and around Dallas, one genre that hasn’t been tapped is a bar with a meat centered menu. In short, a watering hole where a guest can enjoy a Notary (similar to an Old Fashion) while hanging out at a meat counter. This constitutes for personal jubilation.

At The Blind Butcher, Goodfriend owners Matt Tobin and Josh Yingling, kept the interior simple, yet classic.  It has the welcomed appearance of a prohibition era saloon, but also offers neighborhood warmth fitting for Greenville Avenue.

Upon entering, you'll notice all furnishings are painted black, and there isn’t much light beside the soft glow from wall lamps and flatscreen TVs. Taking a seat on a barstool will guarantee a bartender's introduction with a handshake and you may catch yourself people watching via the bar’s giant mirror. I imagine a small room full of cigar smoking, fedora wearing gamblers tucked in the rear but in reality, a spacious patio with another bar.

Big Meat board (photo by Greg Cella)

After several visits since February, I’ve been impressed each time with both new items and the consistency of previous items ordered. The front of the menu is divided by snacks (appetizers rather), boards for sharing, and hand cranked sausages. Aside from the cocktail and beer menu, I find this to be all one needs to enjoy their inaugural experience here. Actually the only two items we ordered from the back of the menu was Pork Belly Poutine and Duck Fat Fries.

The Pig Ears, served with a side of orange aioli, are fried with an unassuming chewiness due to a thin piece of cartilage within. During our last visit, an agreement among the table was an improvement on the already great tasting snack. The house-cured Pastrami eggrolls were also still a favorite.

Ordered on the second visit was the Big Meat Board. This is your man’s man dish. Having enough meat to feed four, the protein is a selection of daily specials. What stood out on this evening were the bison short rib and stuffed chicken.

When it came time to sample the sausage, you cannot simply deny an opportunity to devour Duck Foie Gras sausage with chutney. For a less pretentious sounding choice, the bacon bratwurst with sauerkraut was also carefully selected.

The Duck Foie Gras stood out between the two, having a deeply rich and satisfying flavor. The bacon brat, though  composed of a completely different animal, made it tough to be comparable. However, the brat refused to settle for anything less than approval in taste.

Tangent: Bacon is the cornerstone of the American way of life by celebration of gluttony. The only way to disrespect bacon is to fry it. Sure, throw rocks at me. Then go make your own bacon and ovenize it. After this, you will never ever purchase Kroger bacon again or fry it. If you do, be prepared for my rock hurling.

Poutine's popularity in Canada is equivalent to Hawaii's obsession with Spam. Because of it's recent arrival on local dining tables, the Blind Butcher has three styles to choose from. While sparse of meat and not quite as tender, the Pork Belly Poutine was unique in the flavor delivery. In addition to the belly, layered on a pile of fries was a smoky gravy and cheese curds.

Blind Butcher wall menu (photo by Greg Cella)

I found this to be a choice go-to dish after a few late night beers from their sexy  menu of libations. The Chips and Beer cheese were also lightly decorated with duck pastrami and beer goat cheese, on what seemed to be generic potato chips.

Chef Oliver Sitrin has quietly carved a spot in the upper echelon of local meat purveyors with his unique menu and specialty sausages. The Blind Butcher is a must for meat aficionados to engage their digestive system. But most important is that you can shop for hand cranked sausage –  while sipping a Notary.

BBQ Events for the spring.

Things we like about March – Fat Tuesday, St. Patty’s Day, March Madness, and the beginning of spring. Items we dislike about March – sub-freezing weather.

With the constant threat of an Icepocalypse lurking and ready to expose its ice cubes at any given moment, it may be difficult to envision being outside, frolicking in 70-something degree weather. Do not fear, because like weathermen whose job is stating the obvious of hot or cold, I say it’s a safe bet you will be romping around in a field of blue bonnets.

You know what is better than illegally picking our state’s designated flower? Barbecue.  So, before you find yourself in the county jail with a pocket full of blue bonnets, how about getting grease on your shirt at one, or all, of these upcoming barbecue events.

·        You’re going to need to soak up all the alcohol from the prior weekend’s Dallas Observer Greenville Avenue St. Patty’s Day Parade (could the name be any longer?), so mosey on over to the Fort Worth Stockyards on March. 21-22. The International Barbecue Association Cook-off holds the 'Fort Worth Cops for Kids' competition with over 100 teams cooking meat in support of disadvantaged youth. Find your best handkerchief, head west, donate, and eat. Easy right!? www.fortworthstockyards.org

·        Houston has seldom been known for good barbecue. Once the Oilers left for Tennessee, there hasn’t been much to discuss. Not that either is actually related. Well, Houston no longer has a problem, and the barbecue has upped its game with CorkScrew BBQ and the recently opened Killen’s BBQ. Now the city will be hosting the 2^nd annual Houston BBQ Fest at Reliant Park on April 6^th. General admission tickets are $50 and $90 for VIP. A portion of proceeds also help Vita-Living, Inc. who supports people with disabilities. www.houbbq.com

·        Outdoors, live music, and beer. What if we combined those aforementioned items with 15 of the best barbecue joints in Texas? Well I’m no magician, and we've established I’m just as reliable as a weatherman – there is such an event. On May 3^rd, The Red Dirt BBQ Fest in Tyler will be providing music from the Randy Rogers Band, Whiskey Myers, and Green River Ordinance, while barbecue from local favorites such as Hutchin’s BBQ, Cousin’s BBQ, The Slow Bone, and Lockhart Smokehouse will be serving up their meat stuff. I’d said that’s worth the hour and half drive east. www.reddirtbbqfest.com

LUCK (Local Urban Craft Kitchen), Dallas, TX

If you have never seen a strip mall of restaurants before, behold Phil Romano’s Trinity Groves. His restaurant concept has singlehandedly baked, taken, and devoured the cake – even if it was slightly overdone.

From the kitschy outside appearance – likely due to a Christmas light sale at Costco – to the massive flaming rock columns beckoning you into the coliseum of window shopping for food, Romano went full-fledged Liberace with this.

Upon initial eye contact, it is overwhelming in a childlike sense of wonder kind of way. Once your burned retinas have adjusted to the electric light orchestra, the uniqueness will captivate you.

Entering this dining compound, one conspicuous detail sticks out – each patio was constructed with nothing more in mind than simplicity. A striped down approach was taken –purposefully or not – and unfortunately, this lack of architectural ambition does not match tenants such as Casa Rubia and Resto’s individuality when it comes to their interior design.

While this concrete uniformity may not translate well with the more upscale destinations, it works effortlessly with LUCK (Local Urban Craft Kitchen). Opened in late October of 2013, this gastropub relies on local craft beer while serving variations of regional dishes.

For starters, bierrocks, breaded shrimp, and the pretzels were ordered. The breaded shrimp was less memorable, while the pretzels were as appealing as I’d expect from a homemade pretzel.

Coming three to an order, the bierrocks were reminiscent of the Czech pastry, Klobasnek, which can be found on the way to Austin in West, TX.  With a fluffy texture from the marginally sweet bread, the ground beef and cheese contents meshed well together. Complementing this appetizer was beer cheese and au jus for your dipping pleasure.

For our main entrees, our table of eight ordered the pastrami sandwich, fish and chips, shrimp and grits, pozole, torta de lengua, and pork schnitzel. Sadly, the shrimp and grits were under seasoned with the grits more liquefied in the bowl. The pork schnitzel didn’t exactly set fire to my lenden (Google translate) either, as it was a tad bland. Their fish and chips were good, but you can locate better in one of Dallas’ Irish pub knockoffs, and there are plenty of those to kick your little green shamrocks in.

Having never tried pozole before, this is one dish of LUCK’s that threw a better right hook than those previously mentioned. Again, a pozole rookie here, but without an overabundance of spice, the pork and hominy stew were well seasoned and came across even tempered upon inhalation. A second bowl was ordered.

For LUCK not being a barbecue restaurant that only concentrates on smoked meat, I found the pastrami to have been cooked nicely. Thick slices of meat served between two slices of sourdough bread, along with caramelized onions, ground mustard and a slice of Swiss – this is a well above average bar sandwich. But also, your average bar doesn’t turn brisket into pastrami. And for that reason, try the meat as separate from the sandwich as it’ll allow the pre-smoking brine to be more palpable upon taste.

Recently, I was told not to eat anything that could lick me. Well I do, but I can’t recall much detail about the torta de lengua other than it was enjoyed very much. By this point, my third high ABV beer was about finished, and so was I.

LUCK does craft beer extraordinarily well; but they have some minor misses on the menu. Clearly taking more cues from south of the border and eastern Europe, and given they’ve been open three months and some change, the consistency isn’t there yet.

What the other restaurants in Trinity Grove lack from not having a bar, LUCK provides a closure to that gap. With better than average food, it is an enjoyable spot to relax and attempt to navigate through all 40 taps. Considering most of their inventory hovers around 8% ABV, that’s one challenge I’d like to see.

El Come Taco - going where no Dallas Taco joint has gone before.

I typically stick to smoked meat when writing, but sometimes I need to step outside my self-imposed box and broaden my horizons. Why not do so with my second love?

The taco.

A simple yet versatile concoction of cooked meat, diced cilantro and onions snuggled in a corn tortilla, often doubled up for durability. Like barbecue, if the meat is cooked right, sauce is unnecessary -- though it can be great company.

I’m no taco connoisseur like Taco Trail’s author, Jose Ralat, but when he speaks highly of a taco joint, I pay attention. It’s not often – if ever – I make a dedicated trip to a taqueria beside a late night drunken stop the closest one I locate. When Ralat's photo of a taco from El Come Taco appeared on Instagram, my taste buds started talking.

Although the novelty taco can be entertaining and seemingly adventurous, do they serve sesos or tripas or could they pull off a taco filled with chapulines? No. If you do not know what any of those words mean, allow me to translate – veal brains, calf intestines, and grasshoppers. Yes, grasshoppers.

Growing up in Mexico City, brothers Luis and Javier Villalva worked for their family’s taqueria. Later on, older brother Luis found himself managing Café San Miguel then a little spot over in Ft. Worth known as Revolver Taco Lounge. 

With well over 10 years’ experience between the two and a plan, both combined their love of traditional street food with El Come Taco. The restaurant opened roughly eight weeks ago and has quickly gained fans and ground in the local taco scene. Lucky for us, they chose Dallas for their establishment.

Offering attractive hours for the late night crowd, I decided on going a bit later on a Thursday night. You’ll find El Come Taco situated in a small strip center along Fitzhugh Avenue with only a banner announcing its existence.

On the inside is a brightly colored polished, yet bare restaurant filled with tables, one TV, and a beverage cooler. There is also a dining bar along one wall. Each table has the burnt logo of the restaurant which is the calavera, or a skull -- a symbol mostly associated with the Mexican holiday Dia de los Muertos.

According to Luis, the chalkboard menu provides a well representation of traditional street food found in Mexico City. Javier said several customers have asked for the chapulines taco due to Ralat's  photo – the same photo that attracted me.

Luis stated he would like to make it a permanent item at some point. He even hinted at the possibility of the Maguey worm becoming a filling for tacos. The Maguey worm can either be a caterpillar or larva, dependent upon the color distinction. They feed off the agave plant in central Mexico, and this is one reason distribution would be difficult.

I ordered the lengua (tongue), pastor, pollo marinado, tripas, sesos, and campechano, which is a mixture of brisket and chorizo. Beside the lengua, each meat was cooked to a nice crisp texture, thus eliminating any possibility of slimy meat that could harm the integrity of the tortilla. No one likes a soggy tortilla.

The generous amount of cilantro can be overwhelming and may jeopardize the flavor of the meat, so remedy this by removing as much or as little to taste. You have a choice of four sauces and every bottle is meant to be paired with different meats, as evident by the hand-written labels on the lids.

Providing a bit of heat, I found the green avocado sauce to be the most delectable. The other three sauces were a bit less flavorful and mild than one may expect. However, they’re worth trying a few drops with the respected taco pairings.

The menu doesn’t yield to tacos only. You’ll also find tortas, gringas, and even postres. After a quick education on traditional street tacos and listening to the direction the Villalva brothers want to go in, I suspect they will continue moving into a territory that other local taco joints have yet to venture into.

Work Bar and Grill in Deep Ellum.

The on-off again relationship Dallasites have with Deep Ellum is reminiscent to the turbulent Bobby Brown/Whitney Houston train wreck where they couldn't break up because in the end, they really needed each other. Or something like that.

Crowds give false hope by having a great time, then bail when bored. They leave a path of tears and heartbreak, destroying all hopes of Deep Ellum's rise from obscurity which ultimately goes back to emptiness and dilapidation. The relationship with Deep Ellum is on -- for the time being.

Restaurants, bars and other tenants are finding new homes in a neighborhood that has no reason to ever be vacant. The difference with this kick start to Deep Ellum's heart, that may keep the pulse strong, is the emergence of respectable restaurants -- not an oversaturation of seedy bars or dance clubs, which have become destination trips for their customer base.

One such new restaurant, Work Bar and Grill, opened it's doors in April 2013. The restaurant can be viewed as a novelty sports bar with scantily dressed waitresses, which unfortunately are everywhere, but also has an upscale industrial theme.

Owner/Pitmaster Doug Pickering has brought not necessarily a new concept to life, but one which can thrive if it catches the right crowd. He also may have unknowingly made one of the brightest business moves in Dallas for a barbecue restaurant. With the recent news of Pecan Lodge's relocation to Deep Ellum, those meat travelers who arrive at Pecan Lodge then choose not to wait in line will find Work within walking distance.

Without labeling themselves as solely a barbecue restaurant, they do rely heavily on smoked meat. The menu itself is very diverse, catering to other palates with offerings such as buffalo fried oysters, mussels, and bacon wrapped prawns. There are plenty of green options for those who dig that sort of thing.

I planned my visit around their Thursday-night-only rib offering. Due to my reconnaissance, I discovered the ribs were to be ready by 7 pm. Upon my arrival to a steady, but not overly busy crowd, the disappointing news from the waitress was around 8 pm: They were already out of ribs. I would imagine for a one night per week special, there would be a higher quantity smoked if they sell out in an hour. Early bird gets the pork, I suppose.

The Sugar Cookie brisket was ordered with the sides of choosing being the Potato Salad and Purple Haze Ginger Coleslaw. After the discovery the sausage was that of commercial variety (boggles my mind when there are a handful of local meat markets nearby) and for $4 extra, I opted to add protein by ordering the pulled pork.

With a hearty amount of brisket displayed, no time was wasted digging in. The bark was distinctively good and there were several brilliant bites of meat, more often there were bites which caused my jaw to do a bit more work than I would've preferred. On these slices, the thick fat had more of a congealed effect due to incomplete rendering. This could be remedied by a bit more trimming prior to applying the rub. The smoky flavor was exactly what one would expect and with a bit longer in the pit, every slice of meat could've been consistent deliciousness.

What was commendable was the fact theses slices of brisket were served with fat -- not lean and trimmed of all the flavoring that the average Dickey's enthusiast believes to be real Texas barbecue. While the sauce was served on the side with the brisket, the pulled pork was served with just enough on top to complement the meat.

The sides were above average without particularly standing out. Luckily, there are enough options for the next go-around.

Work Bar and Grill is worth a visit. For a restaurant with an identity crisis such as them (video arcades in the corner next to the posh lounge seating and is it a barbecue joint or not?), this is an option for the lover of smoked meat who would like to hang out for while, watch a game on one of their many flatscreen TVs and enjoy the wide selection of booze located at their saloon-style bar.

The only change I would unselfishly like to see made are the Thursday night ribs becoming a menu staple. It's normal to crave ribs during the day while regressing to your youthful days at the local Pocket Change arcade, right!?

Meat Fight...where everyone was a winner.

Judges panel. Photo by Cody Neathery.

                                           
Similar to Bo Jackson, Alice Laussade is a skilled dual threat on the field of life. No, she doesn't play football or baseball, but she writes at a comedic elevation rivaling Dallas' sky erection (Reunion Tower), and she can throw one hell of a party -- all for a reputable cause.

Started as a backyard contest among friends, 2012 was the first year Meat Fight was open to the public. It's an event like no other held in town.

With 300 tickets selling out quickly and weighing down the upstairs floor at Sons of Hermann Hall, they were able to raise $20,000 for the National Multiple Sclerosis Society. With much appreciation and gratitude toward all involved, Alice had a bigger plan for the following year.

Tiffany Derry. Photography by Cody Neathery.

Hosted at Four Corners Brewery this year, with the same blue print as before, the city’s best chefs came together to cook barbecue -- something none of them typically dabble in at their restaurants.

Usually, you will find Omar Flores piecing together seafood dishes like a puzzle at Driftwood while Tiffany Derry can sculpt elegant American cuisine. Other notable chefs included, Brian Luscher, owner of the Grape, Neighborhood Services Chef Jeff Bekavac, David Uygur of Lucia with Nathan Tate from close by Boulevardier in Bishop Arts, and Café Momentum's Chad Houser, among others.

The twist to the contest was that the best barbecue slingers from across the state would be judging their meat products. After winning "best brisket" in 2012, Slow Bone's Jack Perkins was on the judging panel along with Tim Byres of Smoke, Stephen Joseph of Riverport Barbecue, Dallas' very own barbecue highbrow and Texas Monthly's Barbecue Editor, Daniel Vaughn, Stanley's Famous Pit's Nick Pencis, Justin Fourton of Pecan Lodge, and the ZZ Top of barbecue, Lockhart Smokehouse's Will Fleischman.

Matt and Nick Offerman, Daniel Vaughn and Nick Pencis. Photo by Cody Neathery.

Adding to the table of judges was a celebrity of sorts -- the ultimate kick in the pants. Nick Offerman is a man who knows as much about wood as he does growing a voluptuous mustache. He also portrays Ron Swanson on NBC's Parks and Recreation. On the show and in real life, he is the turbulent meat loving, government disapproving, whiskey guzzling craftsman. 

Sporting a noble beard with an uncanny thirst for craft beer and hunger for smoked meat was Nick's brother Matt Offerman, who made the pilgrimage as a second guest judge. After a hearty conversation with Matt, one would discover his love of craft beer comes from being a brewer at Solemn Oath brewery in Illinois.

Team Meatallica's meat things. Photo by Cody Neathery.

With 500 tickets selling out within 5 minutes this year, doors opened at 4 pm for VIP ticket holders and 5 pm for general admission. All in attendance were bamboozled by a cornucopia of cooked animal and yes, there were veggie options for the extra-terrestrials cloaked in human flesh walking amongst the carnivores.

Three teams slugged it out for idol-like trophies of gold spray painted animals. Team Notorious P.I.G. anchored by Derry took home awards for best ribs, sausage and fish while Luscher's band, Meatallica, carried the best brisket award back to their kitchen. Scrappy team, Cool Arrows, led by fearless leader and rib diver, Houser, unfortunately wound up empty handed -- but seemingly had a fun time doing so.

Bacon donuts from Hypnotic Donuts.Photograph by Cody Neathery.

With the first annual 'Uncle Benjamin's Meatvember Beard Pageant' (which I made to the second round before a woeful dismissal) and live auction concluded, Laussade and husband Mike, made an announcement, followed by a raucous cheer from the crowd.

The total raised by Meat Fight for this year was $50,000, thus pulverizing last year's amount. And therefore, more than doubling her vision whilst raising the awareness of the fight against Multiple Sclerosis. Although being stalked by a woman convinced I was a reporter who had calmed Lady Gaga during an interview on Good Morning Texas, I give this two beefy thumbs up for a great night and an even better reason to break meat.

Texas Monthly BBQ Fest by way of Hutchin's BBQ.

It’s fairly safe to claim the Texas Monthly BBQ Festival held every November in Austin is the Christmas of smoked meat. Only the best barbecue joints in the world (which so happen to ALL lie within Texas’ borders) receive invites and tickets sell out within minutes of being electronically released. For those who are technologically challenged, a walk up option was available with food not necessarily being guaranteed.

Every ticket purchaser should leave fat from the food and happy from the food and beer. If one did not waddle away 10 lbs. heavier while in an intense state of transcendent happiness combined with an overwhelming sense of contentment – you clearly screwed up somehow.

Photo by Cody Neathery.

Five of the 21 restaurants in attendance were from Dallas-Ft. Worth or the surrounding area, with all serving stellar cuts of brisket, ribs and sausage. The line-up included Dallas’ Pecan Lodge and Lockhart Smokehouse, Ft. Worth’s Cousin’s BBQ, McKinney’s Hutchin’s BBQ, and Stanley’s Famous Pit out of Tyler. Unfortunately several other local nominees didn’t attend but from previous year’s festivals – this was a strong showing and something for north Texas to celebrate.

As a man who often gets pulled into conversations relating to the best barbecue around, one would be surprised the amount of locals who still have not tried Pecan Lodge even though they have heard the buzz surrounding them. Most don’t even know its location. Let that sink in for a bit. We’re talking about the #2 joint in the world. Dallas, wake up. It’s located in your backyard. To the mayor of Dallas – wake up because you could potentially lose them. Asinine right!?

Imagine being the owner of a top ranked joint in Texas located roughly 30 miles north of Dallas but receiving not much more recognition than what was published from Texas Monthly back in May. Not a mere mention of congratulations from its hometown that was itself, listed as Money Magazine’s number 5 town in America as a ‘Best Place to Live.’ That being said, don’t you think their hometown would have a greater appreciation and respect for a national list?

Hello McKinney, Texas – have you met what is one of the best barbecue restaurants in Texas – or in the world? If not, Hutchin’s BBQ rests conveniently near your much publicized historic square which draws thousands of tourists annually. That seems to me that there is some missed opportunity in this equation or maybe someone in the tourism department has become complacent.

Dustin Blackwell - Hutchin's BBQ. Photo by Cody Neathery.

Arriving Saturday afternoon in Austin, the ultimate barbecue camp was constructed in the backyard-style parking lot where Pitmaster John Lewis churns out some of the most admirable protein from a food trailer known as La Barbecue. An abundance of fold out chairs, unwavering amount of beer and the congregation of new and old friends alike, you couldn’t ask for a better way to spend a Saturday.

Adding to the mystique of the soft smoke billowing out of the smokestacks and next door to La Barbecue, is a small single room store geared toward the religion of Santeria. Walking myself over with child-like curiosity or maybe spiritually guided by whiskey – there inside were shelves of religious statues, candles and bottles of magical potion. Ironically enough, some find barbecue to be a religious experience with hints of superstition and luck but the real magic begins at the hands of the pitmasters.

Hutchin's BBQ rib. Photo by Cody Neathery.

On Sunday, I had the privilege of attending the fourth annual Texas Monthly BBQ Fest as a guest of Hutchin’s BBQ. Tim Hutchin and long-time best friend, Dustin Blackwell, have turned this restaurant, established in 1978, into a barbecue mecca. The consistency they brought to the Fest bested some of the state’s more highly rated barbecue joints and it showed by the constant demand from the public.

You’re always going to have an understandably or baffling (however waiting three hours rubs you) long line for the usual suspects like Franklin Barbecue, Pecan Lodge, and Snow’s BBQ, but the line for Hutchin’s was one of the most unrivaled in length between all attendees.

Understandably or baffling long lines for Franklin and Snow's. Photo by Cody Neathery.

When pointed out, Hutchins and Blackwell both quit cutting for a brief moment, visually taking in the line which had formed in front of them. Even Tim’s father and restaurant namesake, Roy Hutchins, who initially started Roy’s Smokehouse in Princeton, was present to see this achievement. There was a realization of the work and determination that their family had put into this restaurant, even overcoming a recent fire in 2012 which Tim and Dustin both claimed to be one of the “darkest moments of our lives.”

While usually overshadowed by the local favorites of Pecan Lodge and Lockhart Smokehouse, it’s refreshing to see the little guy shine on such a monumental stage like the Texas Monthly BBQ Fest. With Tim Hutchins, the quality of his brisket and ribs were on the forefront of his mind as he carefully tried to pick the best cut for each customer. Not often does one witness this consideration and humble gratitude.

Tim Hutchins - Hutchin's BBQ. Photo by Cody Neathery.

Sure Blackwell may have torn a chunk of flesh from his leg on the side of a trailer thus resulting in a gaping wound that John Lewis wanted to seal with hot coal while I readily stood by with a bottle of moonshine ready to flush out any bacteria. Of course the night was elevated with the arrival of the Stanley's Famous Pit crew when shots were appearing left and right which may have had something to do with us temporarily having no clue where we were early Sunday morning. As expected the next day was a grind, but experiences such as these make stories worth telling.

In hindsight, all the superstitions and luck charms could be tossed to the side. Mostly all it takes are years of preparation to meet one opportunity. And it all begins at the hands of a pitmaster.

Pecan Lodge

5 Stars

www.pecanlodge.com

With Pecan Lodge, coming off a tie for #2 in the Texas Monthly top 50 list, I had the pleasure of entertaining a guest from Austin who wanted to try some of the D/FW 7 from said list. Matt, is an amateur BBQ lover, having tried some I have not and vice versa. Resembling Daniel Vaughn ever so slightly but less of a Far Side cartoon, he drove up to Dallas on a Thursday morning and we met at Shed #2 in the Farmer's Market. A blind man date with only thing in mind...meat.

I had previously tried Pecan Lodge earlier in the year and would've given it a 3 star rating based on that experience. I asked for fatty brisket but was given lean. It was a bit dry although had one of the better smoked flavors I've tried out of other briskets. The ribs were so-so as I had just experienced some stellar ribs at other local and Austin joints. Some clown in front of me ordered a massive platter eliminating all sausage and depriving me of a handmade link that day. Needless to say...so much for the hype.

With Matt making the trek from Austin, I decided it was time to give Justin Fourton's spell another shot at hypnotizing me as many others have been. We ordered a three meat plate with a mix of fatty and lean brisket, one rib and one handmade link. The okra was of course ordered as this side was a highlight from my first visit. When Matt goes to work, he has pen and pad ready and a scale to measure meat to ensure he doesn't over indulge at each place. I'm quite the opposite of this preparation as I rely on pictures I take to jog my memory. I also like being a member of the clean plate club, leaving no meat behind.

Starting with the sausage, I found this particularly fresh and was pleased that it was handmade rather than ordered elsewhere. I do wish other Dallas BBQ institutes would put the time in for something that Austin, Central Texas and the Hill Country have mastered. We're still learning up in North Texas. The casing was thin and the pork had a fine grind that came apart easily upon eating. There were visible flakes of pepper and with a hue of red to the pork link with mild spice. Next was the brisket. It was exactly what I hoped it would be. The texture was among the best I've experienced. The visual was sexy from the marbling while the juicy fat provided a buttery effect upon mouth entrance. The Mesquite wood gave it a very pronounced smoke flavor with a tart after taste from the Mesquite. I'm not the biggest fan of Mesquite but now I realize why everyone falls head over heels in love with this brisket. The bark was stellar with neither the pepper or salt from the rub over powering one another. The rib was next and on this stop, it erased my previous feelings toward these meat lollipops. This time the heavy pepper was well-balanced with the semi-sweet glaze on the surface. Again the flavors married well without the either rub nor glaze fighting for dibs on your taste buds. The pork came off from the bone with a clean removal that I applaud.

Compared to my first visit, I can finally say that I understand why Pecan Lodge has many loyalists and tied for #2. The okra was still amazing and I would recommend using the tangy sauce as it's kiddie pool. Matt and I left that day with me not giving a damn about using a scale because I wanted to cherish this moment and commit gluttony. It will be interesting to monitor the friendly competition between Pecan Lodge and Lockhart Smokehouse as Dallas' top Q joint. What's even more exciting...there are others not far behind.

The Slow Bone Barbeque

 

Update: No movement

One perk when Matt Gross visited was getting to try places I had already been to. This time with a fresh set of taste buds. The first time I ate here it was on opening day. The brisket and sausage rocked yet the ribs were served before completion. On this stop, the rib quality was elevated yet some bites closer to the bone were still tough to pull apart. Your average customer may not think twice about this. I wasn't completely happy with the cutter slicing our brisket into small thin pieces which felt like eating finger food appetizers. The flavor was still an even mix of salt, pepper and hickory. The jalapeno brat and original sausage were tried this time. The taste was very good but without an ease of snap. Brats usually have a different texture regardless and snapping one usually doesn't work. In the words of Jack, "we've only been doing this for 5 weeks and have made many changes. In 5 months, many more changes will occur."

4 Stars

Since Social Media darling and Maple & Motor owner, Jack Perkins, announced his plan for a barbeque joint in the Design District of Dallas...the local food scene has been anything but quiet on the subject and mainly because of Mr. Perkin's not-so-subtle "personality and charm".

Having taken the local hamburger scene by storm since his Maple & Motor conception opened in September 2009, his critics and fans alike have as much passion about his burger then any other burger joint in Dallas. The anticipation has been high. Was it possible for his burger success to translate into the BBQ scene and mark it's territory? After being lucky enough to sample (many times) his award winning brisket from Meat Fight 2012...this past Tuesday could answer that question. At least for me.

I strolled in shortly after 12:30 and from what I heard, luckily missed the lunch crowd and enabling enough time for more of Slow Bone's meat product to be ready. Also noted, "Miss Jessie", the Oyler smoker went into meat coma that Tuesday evening from too much meat birth. Jack was nice enough to provide free meals the following Wednesday to those who showed. I ordered the three meat plate which cost $15. This included your choice of bread (corn or hushpuppy) and two sides. I chose the breaded okra and Brussels sprout and cauliflower casserole. For the meats, I ordered the lean brisket (which had a minimal layer of fat) with burnt ends, also the cilantro sausage and St. Louis ribs. The ribs weren't completely ready at the time of ordering.

Sitting at the bar with my old school lunch tray of meat eagerly awaiting the ribs, I felt like a child with a bladder full of Dr. Pepper on a road trip with no end in sight. Finally the ribs were placed in front of me. First things first, photo opportunity. I picked up the cilantro sausage link and started with the traditional snap. It wasn't the cleanest pop having to twist a bit but by that time the meat was in my mouth faster than a...(insert Harry Hines Blvd. hooker / Dallas politician joke here). It was good. Uniquely good. Being a fan of cilantro as most Texans are, this ought to be ordered at least once in your life. This recipe was pieced together from one of the employees located where they purchase the sausage from. A little hint, it's in Austin and the name can be found on "Miss Jessie". Now time for the brisket.

A couple of months ago Jack was interviewed for his preferred method of smoking brisket. High heat was the answer he gave. What I found out after sitting down with him was the slow and low method for 18 hours at a constant temperature. The brisket was exactly what I would expect from central Texas. Solid hickory smoked flavor. Fat was rendered well, moist, beautiful ring and the bark provided the icing to the cattle cake. Nicely done. The ribs were next. I had ordered them prematurely and Jack told me, "they shouldn't had been served if they weren't ready." Rightfully so and I can't judge the texture due to my impatience. Some bites were more rendered than others. There was a good amount of heat to the flavor which I noticed red pepper and cayenne involved with a hint of sweetness though not provided by sugar as Jack informed me. Secrets. I will gladly return to try the ribs again after being thoroughly cooked.

The sauces were vinegar based, one being more of a heavy flavor and thin (located at the condiment bar), while the BBQ sauce was a bit more thick yet, nice tomato base and lighter with the vinegar. Both sides I found to be exceptionally good and even though Mr. Perkins wants to cater to a vegetarian crowd as well...those vegetarians may walk out of Slow Bone being converted into carnivores. Although Dallas has always been a red-headed step-child to the Texas BBQ scene, I believe if this Design District restaurant continues with consistency and maturing improvements, this will be another staple along side Pecan Lodge, Mike Anderson's, Off the Bone and Lockhart Smokehouse. If you want some solid meat, Jack's Slow Bone will surely oblige.

Off the Bone Barbeque

4 Stars

http://www.offthebonebarbeque.com

For years this place found on the industrial stretch of South Lamar has caught my eye. Not only because of the BBQ but because of it's home. Located in what appears to be an old gas station or possible corner store of an era gone by, you can't find too many nostalgic buildings still occupied (if Dallas hasn't torn them down yet). After deciding to begin work on South Dallas BBQ joints choosing Off the Bone wasn't a difficult decision at all.

A heavy drift of pecan smoke flowed through the air and I had arrived right before others so the expectations were high. Off the Bone has been voted "Best in Dallas" so this added to the allure. Framed pictures inside note the famous who have entered this joint throughout the years of it's existence. Walking into the ordering counter you will notice employees to your right prepping food and tucked behind them a J&R smoker.

After being inquisitive about the menu you may want to watch out on the pricing. I initially asked for my standard of a three meat plate with nothing more. This came to a whopping $20 plus dollars. How so? Well they were charging me sandwich meat prices and this would've been without sides. Ok let's back the word train up and start again. I asked about the sausage to see if this would be worth it and bingo...Hillshire Farms. Nope. Ok scratch that order and I'll take the two meat combo with ribs, lean brisket with bark and minimal fat (trying to watch my health now) and the Summer Cool Cole Slaw and Southern Potato Salad. I failed to make sure sauce was on the side.

The plate was delivered and as you notice above they do serve sauce on it. Fortunately for me there was enough naked meat that I could make a substantial judgment on the brisket. The meat was outstanding. It was tender, moist enough with minimal fat, crust was perfect and the pecan smoked flavor sealed the deal. I quickly began scraping off the remaining sauce. The ribs met the same unfortunate fate with a sauce bath as well. I worked my way around it and found rather pleasant tasting ribs minus the pecan smoke flavoring. With hints of cayenne and pepper the rib meat came off with a slight tug and melted in my mouth. Both sides were among the best I've came across.

On the fence of 3 and 4 stars I opted with 4. I'm beginning to realize that just because ribs don't have bark or the smokey flavor everyone thinks should exist doesn't mean they suck. Stanley's Famous has won best ribs in Texas before and they're just damn good ribs. You won't find a heavy smoke flavor to them or a sweet sticky crust. Off the Bone's ribs are done their way like it or not. The brisket rivaled Pecan Lodge on this day.

I want to challenge Off the Bone. First, please look into local handmade sausage and ditch the Hillshire Farm. This could separate you from many others. You have the quality product needed which brings me to my second request. Serve the sauce on the side. Let the meat stand on it's own and there will be no dissatisfaction.

Mike Anderson's BBQ House

4 Stars

http://www.mikeandersonsbbq.com/

Found myself in this neck of the woods one day around 11 am and decided to try it out after being probed by a Yelp follower. Having driven past it a few couple times and noticing the lot usually pretty full, this could be for one of two things...it's location by the hospitals and downtown or it's pretty good. After reading reviews elsewhere I thought it may be a hit or miss but after my experience...I think Mike's doesn't get the credit it deserves. This will be a controversial comment but after my one experience at Pecan Lodge...Mike's was better. Keep in my mind...this is only one visit to Mike's and it was right before the lunch crowd therefore the product was ready to be served.

I chose the three meat plate which cost $12.50...not a bad deal. Double-breaded fried okra and slaw for the sides although all of their sides looked amazing. Also picked up the jalapeno bbq sauce. Using Old Hickory smokers out of Missouri and hickory wood...the brisket had a wonderful tasting bark on it with well rendered fat and a savory smoke flavor. Surprise, surprise. The sausage ordered was their hot, which is specially made for them, and had great taste as well. Two solid products thus far...let's see if they could pull off the Texas BBQ trifecta. Pork ribs were on par with the rest of the meal. Pink coloring from the smoke, texture was moist and soft, and the semi-sweet outer base hit the spot. One thing I enjoy when it comes to ribs is the ability to pull the meat off the bone and these fall into that category. The jalapeno bbq sauce was original and a great companion to the fried okra. I walked away satisfied with this decision. If they're consistent like that everyday...I'm not sure why they aren't getting discussed along with other DFW greats more often.

On the day I ate at Pecan Lodge, I wasn't impressed. It gets another opportunity before a review only because of it's stature. Doesn't seem fair but it was a bit after lunch and they had just ran out of sausage and this is my blog. I know that's not what anyone would expect me to say and I fall outside the massive crowds who drop to their knees for PL meat but from my comparison...I must give credit where credit is due. I'm ready for the tar and feathering but I'm sticking with my taste buds.

Sonny Bryan's - Love Field

0

I'm not sure where to start with this. Hmmm. I did not expect much to be honest and I quickly got a bad taste in my mouth without tasting a bite. I walked up to the meat cutter and asked for fatty brisket with bark. The answer I received...

"We only have fatty and lean brisket and this is our fatty." Huh?

Ok, lemme start again. I noticed the lean brisket off to the side having a bit of bark on it so I requested lean with crust. He then turned the crusted side away and begin to slice. You can see a tiny amount of crust but compared to the amount he could've cut...very stingy or just didn't know. Because of his earlier answer...I'm going to lean on the lack of knowledge.

I then asked how long have they been smoking and he mentioned they start the night before and bring them over in the morning to be finished up. You may be waiting a while for them to be "finished" as the brisket was tough, dry and lacked smoke. The sausage may as well have been from Hillshire Farm. Unfortunately they did not have ribs so I requested the smoked turkey and this was actually somewhat edible. Or maybe because the bar had been lowered so much that at this point...anything would taste promising.

Unfortunately, a poor representation of Texas BBQ for those unlucky patrons flying in and out from Love Field. Airport BBQ. As much of a debacle as buffet BBQ.

3 Stacks Smoke and Taphouse

5 Stars

http://www.3stacksbbq.com/

I ventured into 3 Stacks a couple days before it open to get the low down. Not only was 3 Stacks going to focus on BBQ with the three J&R smokers...it was going to celebrate craft beer as well having a heavy dose of local. There isn't another BBQ restaurant in the Plano/Frisco area making an attempt to do this so I welcomed the idea.

Now that it had been open for over a week and reading through some half-witted Yelp reviews, it was time I stepped foot into this building. It was a rainy, cold and windy day but the smell of smoke carried in the air. Walking up to the building you will see the stacks of Mesquite and Hickory wood to your left and an inviting patio to your right. When you set foot in here, you will notice the ordering line will be to your left with a large man wearing a cowboy hat directing his team. This gentleman is Mr. Trace Arnold aka "The Rib Whisperer". You may have seen him on the History Channel hauling around an 18 wheeler transformed into the "World's Largest Ultimate Smoker Grill". This guy is no frills about the meat having cooked for some worldly known clientele.

I ordered my standard which each individual part was wrapped in foil. He made sure what I ordered was correct unlike the Sonny Bryan's in Lovefield where the request for bark fell flat. He mentioned that lunch specials and meat plates were coming soon but right now all orders were by the pound. You will find a line of servers behind you ready to deal out a wide array of sides. Jalapeno corn bread, cheesy corn bake, 6 cheese mac and cheese and green bean casserole were ordered between a colleague and I.

I snapped the jalapeno cheese link and it wasn't bad at all. The amount of cheese within mixed well with the red pepper flakes and diced jalapeno. It surrendered a nice spiced kick. I was told they're handmade on location. The brisket was spot on. The bark had one of the better tastes I've had and the meat was moist with a smokiness which was not overbearing though still present. The bark had a sweetness to it as well. Possibly maple, honey, coffee, cayenne and paprika? I found that similar flavor on the ribs but with the flavor hitting differently. The first two ribs weren't as meaty as I would've liked but that didn't take away from the flavor as they were far above the average. Well rendered, pink coloring, fall off the bone easy. After a welcoming visit by a few servers, the manager, and Trace...I was offered two more ribs with their plum chipotle sauce on them. The cayenne and paparika on the backside were more pronounced as the plum chipotle sauce on the meaty side married all flavors well. The sides were all very fresh and can be shared amongst two. Overall I was well pleased but a bit more smoke wouldn't hurt either.

I'm absolutely thrilled to have a great BBQ joint in my backyard. With great meat, great service and a Texas theme, I look forward to 3 Stacks providing me with a couple hours of Hill Country solitude while living in the suburbs. Luckily it rests away from Preston Road and the classy Hooter's next door. I hope this consistency is maintained for every customer with every visit...as I will be a returning customer with many more visits.

Mac's Barbeque

3 Stars

Coming from south of Dallas today just after lunch and needed somewhere to belly up to. Decision was between Off the Bone and Mama Faye's. However Mac's was brought to my attention. I was told to order the chopped brisket/sausage sandwich...but I stick to my standard. Fortunately they had a three meat plate which came with two sides for $15. Not a bad deal in this economy.

Walking into this location of Mac's, which they've been here for 30-odd years and before Main Street off Exposition for some period as well...having been around since 1955. I walked in and back into the late 70's and early 80's. A bit of Dallas history hung on the faux wood panels in frames and the humming fluorescent lights were overshadowed by the bright sun outside. What I'm noticing more and more and subtly appreciating is the look inside majority of older Que joints. They just stopped giving a shit or never did on the appearance after the 80's.

I walked up to the counter and saw the brisket displayed under the heat lamp. Time was approximately 1 pm. Ordered my standard with slaw and okra. The plate delivered was promising. Jalapeno sausage first. This was juicy and had a nice little kick in it. All the reviews read claim this sausage to be made locally...not the case. A meat market in West, TX makes Mac's because "everyone around Dallas wants to do it how they want it done." Billy, the pitmaster, concocted this recipe and he said they do it to his specifications in West. Nicely done. The ribs had a shine and I couldn't wait to bite into them. Unfortunately, hardly a notice of smoke and somewhat under seasoned. There was just a well-rounded pork flavor and the meat came off easily. Lastly the chopped brisket. I don't exactly prefer my brisket chopped but that shouldn't deter from the flavor. Sadly enough, it reminded me of pot roast. There was no smoke and minimal crust. Luckily the sauce helped it down the hatch. Ah my heart hurt and this wasn't from the copious amounts of greasy meat I eat weekly. I was a bit let down. Longer in the smoker and this would've been perfect.

I spoke to Billy and looked at his built in smoker "the cremator" as he called it. I got a kick out of that. The smoker appeared to be done smoking and when he opened it, I didn't receive a big whiff of smoke. Hmmm. He had some brisket already smoking for the next day and I left baffled to why a lack of any smoke on the meats.

Billy and his wife are absolutely nice to speak with. The okra was spot on. On the fence between 2 and 3 stars...I chose 3 because I believe this could be done better. I would love to return to see if the meat at 11 am is different than 1 pm. 

Lockhart Smokehouse

 

Updated: 5 Stars ( May 2013 )

www.lockhartsmokehouse.com

Finally making a return trip to Lockhart Smokehouse and having tried more joints around the state and the D/FW locale, I must give credit where credit is due. Unlike my previous visit and review, this time the ribs were absolutely perfect. You could pull the meat right off and warm your face from the heat hidden beneath. The fatty brisket was warm, moist and melted easily upon entering my pie hole. No need for forks or teeth. The lean brisket came apart with precision right along the fine lines of the meat. Both barks were well peppered and salted and the burnt ends ordered were so good it was unfair. If I had tear ducts, you would've witnessed my inconsolable crying of joy. Standing at the bar, with greasy hands covering my face whilst having a divine moment of Holy Beef. If overturning tables in celebratory fashion were allowed, tables overturned you would've found.

One amends that could be made was the time of day between both stops. My first visit was at 2 pm...this visit was right before noon. Should that matter? No, but it may have been a difference maker. The only hang-up I have (and I actually mentioned this in my first review but played the devil's advocate) are the prices. Because of the price complaints from others, I paid particular attention when ordering the meats. Had what I ordered been precisely cut and weighed, it should've come out to around $30 at most...but somehow, this meal wound up at $50. I ordered a 1/4 lb. of brisket (cost is $7.5/lb.) however, this somehow resulted in $10. I notice other joints making attempts to keep it as close as possible, usually within a dollar, and I would like to see Lockhart work on this. That being my only concern, between Pecan Lodge and Lockhart Smokehouse...I'm going with Smokehouse. See below...happy rib face.

 

4 Stars ( Jan 2013 )

Lockhart Smokehouse has gained attention rather quickly for a few reasons. The association with Kreuz Market (hence the name Lockhart), being seen on BBQ Pitmaster's, and for being a solid Que joint in Dallas. It was time that I knocked this off my local list. Which has taken longer to complete than the statewide list.

We arrived around 2 pm, after the lunch rush though there was still a good crowd within. I was worried about the meat...would I get fresh being a bit later in the day or dry and tough? That was a chance I was willing to take. The theme inside is rustic Texas Que joint playing off the exposed brick décor you would find in Smitty's or Luling City Market. Heading past the bar to the ordering line you will see the wall of accolades and publication mentions, which is impressive considering it's existence of near 2 years.

The menu is self-explanatory, which helps the most amateur BBQ fan. If you're not sure, ask for a sample. They will oblige. We ordered 1/2 lb. of brisket with burnt ends, 3 ribs, one regular link, and deviled brisket eggs. Total came to about $30 which may be a bit pricey to some but hey...you pay to eat well. Go to Dickey's if you don't like it. No complaints. The staff which included Pit Guru, Will Fleischman, was very friendly. We were promised entertainment from the bartender. So that's right where we headed.

I quickly ignored making a trip to the sauce stand and dug into the sausage. It was perfect. Snapped well, was full within casing, didn't fall apart in your hand. Flavor delivered mild black pepper. Which was a bit opposite of La Barbecue's sausage, albeit great flavor for theirs as well. Luckily my friend hit the sauce stand and I'm glad she did. I did dip a couple bites of sausage into the sauce. A nice sweet, smoky, and peppered flavor. Not too thin and not too thick. I next dug into the rib. Salt and pepper were the right amount with peppercorn scattered about and it did come off the bone easily. Rib tips were still on and I found these to be a bit tough but the flavor was still solid. Occasionally I bit into a hint of something sweet...possible layer of honey? I'll need confirmation which means another couple ribs and the Pit Guru's secret. The brisket was moist but dryer than what I wanted but the burnt end flavor made amends. A lot of bark and nice smoke ring though. I could blame this as I worked backwards thus leaving the brisket exposed to room temperature and having time to dry. I could've ask for more fat. Next time, I'll try the clod. Deviled brisket eggs...speechless. The smoky flavor resonated well on all meat products.

All in all, I will return. I will recommend. Daniel, the bartender, a jolly fellow who doesn't mind talking jalapenos and stomach ulcers will keep you entertained as promised. I've been told he can dance on the bar.