The Slow Bone Barbeque

 

Update: No movement

One perk when Matt Gross visited was getting to try places I had already been to. This time with a fresh set of taste buds. The first time I ate here it was on opening day. The brisket and sausage rocked yet the ribs were served before completion. On this stop, the rib quality was elevated yet some bites closer to the bone were still tough to pull apart. Your average customer may not think twice about this. I wasn't completely happy with the cutter slicing our brisket into small thin pieces which felt like eating finger food appetizers. The flavor was still an even mix of salt, pepper and hickory. The jalapeno brat and original sausage were tried this time. The taste was very good but without an ease of snap. Brats usually have a different texture regardless and snapping one usually doesn't work. In the words of Jack, "we've only been doing this for 5 weeks and have made many changes. In 5 months, many more changes will occur."

4 Stars

Since Social Media darling and Maple & Motor owner, Jack Perkins, announced his plan for a barbeque joint in the Design District of Dallas...the local food scene has been anything but quiet on the subject and mainly because of Mr. Perkin's not-so-subtle "personality and charm".

Having taken the local hamburger scene by storm since his Maple & Motor conception opened in September 2009, his critics and fans alike have as much passion about his burger then any other burger joint in Dallas. The anticipation has been high. Was it possible for his burger success to translate into the BBQ scene and mark it's territory? After being lucky enough to sample (many times) his award winning brisket from Meat Fight 2012...this past Tuesday could answer that question. At least for me.

I strolled in shortly after 12:30 and from what I heard, luckily missed the lunch crowd and enabling enough time for more of Slow Bone's meat product to be ready. Also noted, "Miss Jessie", the Oyler smoker went into meat coma that Tuesday evening from too much meat birth. Jack was nice enough to provide free meals the following Wednesday to those who showed. I ordered the three meat plate which cost $15. This included your choice of bread (corn or hushpuppy) and two sides. I chose the breaded okra and Brussels sprout and cauliflower casserole. For the meats, I ordered the lean brisket (which had a minimal layer of fat) with burnt ends, also the cilantro sausage and St. Louis ribs. The ribs weren't completely ready at the time of ordering.

Sitting at the bar with my old school lunch tray of meat eagerly awaiting the ribs, I felt like a child with a bladder full of Dr. Pepper on a road trip with no end in sight. Finally the ribs were placed in front of me. First things first, photo opportunity. I picked up the cilantro sausage link and started with the traditional snap. It wasn't the cleanest pop having to twist a bit but by that time the meat was in my mouth faster than a...(insert Harry Hines Blvd. hooker / Dallas politician joke here). It was good. Uniquely good. Being a fan of cilantro as most Texans are, this ought to be ordered at least once in your life. This recipe was pieced together from one of the employees located where they purchase the sausage from. A little hint, it's in Austin and the name can be found on "Miss Jessie". Now time for the brisket.

A couple of months ago Jack was interviewed for his preferred method of smoking brisket. High heat was the answer he gave. What I found out after sitting down with him was the slow and low method for 18 hours at a constant temperature. The brisket was exactly what I would expect from central Texas. Solid hickory smoked flavor. Fat was rendered well, moist, beautiful ring and the bark provided the icing to the cattle cake. Nicely done. The ribs were next. I had ordered them prematurely and Jack told me, "they shouldn't had been served if they weren't ready." Rightfully so and I can't judge the texture due to my impatience. Some bites were more rendered than others. There was a good amount of heat to the flavor which I noticed red pepper and cayenne involved with a hint of sweetness though not provided by sugar as Jack informed me. Secrets. I will gladly return to try the ribs again after being thoroughly cooked.

The sauces were vinegar based, one being more of a heavy flavor and thin (located at the condiment bar), while the BBQ sauce was a bit more thick yet, nice tomato base and lighter with the vinegar. Both sides I found to be exceptionally good and even though Mr. Perkins wants to cater to a vegetarian crowd as well...those vegetarians may walk out of Slow Bone being converted into carnivores. Although Dallas has always been a red-headed step-child to the Texas BBQ scene, I believe if this Design District restaurant continues with consistency and maturing improvements, this will be another staple along side Pecan Lodge, Mike Anderson's, Off the Bone and Lockhart Smokehouse. If you want some solid meat, Jack's Slow Bone will surely oblige.