Joseph's Riverport Bar-B-Que

The rebirth of old in Jefferson.

Resting north of Marshall, Texas and west of Caddo Lake - off Highway 59 and crossing the Big Cypress River on a singular bridge - is Jefferson. Once considered the "Riverport to the Southwest," it's now a living historical marker of an era gone bye. After viewing the downtown's French-styled architecture and surrounding Greek-revival homes you will understand why it's known as the only true Louisiana town in Texas. Spend time there and you'll be immersed with a heritage as distinct as you'll find anywhere.

With a dark history of chilling ghost stories from the Grove plantation, and infamous murder of Diamond Bessie Moore, Texas' first murder trial - to the classy Excelsior hotel where 19th century affluent such as railroad mogul Jay Gould, author Oscar Wilde, and President Ulysses S. Grant once made their reservations.

All this due to Jefferson's important role as Texas' 6th largest city during the Steamboat age. Jefferson also offers the natural beauty of the states only natural lake - Caddo Lake - along with swamp and bayous lined with bald Cypress trees and Spanish Moss.

Joseph's Riverport Bar-B-Que is more than a brick structure on the corner of Polk and Lafayette Streets in downtown Jefferson. Propriotership runs in pitmaster Stephen Joseph's family as the building was once a clothing store, pharmacy and Radio Shack. The building itself where Stephen cooks Texas Monthly Top 50 Barbecue was approximately 100 years old before an unfortunate fire reduced it to ash in 2012. Armed with more than a personal goal to rebuild - Stephen understood that the town needed him as much as he needed them.

A long time coming.

Halfway into their 20th year of existence and roots coming from the familiar ETX barbecue chain named Bodacious Bar-B-Que - these roots end with the title having no influence on Stephen's recipes, style, or technique. Not to slander an ETX favorite by any means, it's just Stephen has merely grown into his own after his college beginnings cutting cabbage in the Bodacious kitchen. How does one begin cutting cabbage you might ask? He will answer, "My dad told me to get off the couch and get a job."

Self-admittedly because of cook and ownership responsibility, Stephen never found time to travel to other BBQ joints let alone search the internet for cooking tips. His methods of research begin within the last few years by careful examination of pictures from other barbecue restaurants across the state. With an impressive eye for detail - he attempted to match colors and textures from these pictures to replicate on his briskets and ribs. Smoking hickory, pecan and oak using a Bewley pit, a true artistic approach was taken to help form his masterpiece.

To anyone else this may seem like a tall-tale and something that legends grow from. Maybe so but highly unlikely. After sitting and conversing with Stephen while eating perfectly rendered brisket with a bark that deserves it's own spot in the Top 5 - there'll be no room for doubt let alone any room for dessert. The brisket crust, held together with a balanced measurement of black pepper and salt, delivered a slab of buttery meat surrounded by an immense smoke flavor. This rub equation translated successfully to the ribs though with a hint of sweetness to be discovered.

Asking for his opinion on the ETX customer's appeal for bark-less, flavorless lean brisket - he was clear where he stood about his product. "If it doesn't hit my mark - it's not going on my menu." His story told with sincerity of his current success isn't new to the town of Jefferson. They've known it for years as both parties are intertwined in it. I'm just thankful the town of Jefferson is happy to share Riverport's success with the rest of us.