Find a Que joint.

Tuesday, August 6, 2013

Metzler's Food & Beverage


2 Stars

http://www.metzlerscatering.com/

Hanging in front of this established Denton convenience store is a faded navy blue banner reading "Voted Best in Denton 2008". What you'll also notice is the advertisement of alcohol and furthermore that they serve smoked meat with sausage from Fischer's Market in Muenster, TX.

They've been around since 1947 and have been serving the "finest bar-b-q" since then as their drinking cup states. Noticeably on their menu is a heavy German influence and using Fischer's sausages, I wanted this place to be something worth telling people about. Other than the broad alcohol selection, my hopes would soon be dashed.     - - - - - -

First thing I noticed when I arrived before noon was an absolute lack of smoke outside and inside, where the smoker was actually located. By now I know what this entails. Day old meat. From a small shop like this, I'd expect it could go either way. On one hand with their history, I would've thought fresh BBQ daily if they were popular at lunch. On the other hand, if they don't sell a comparable volume of BBQ, they probably won't trash leftovers as this isn't cost effective. Neither is serving current and potential customers lackluster quality because they will eventually stop coming.

I ordered the three meat plate with German potato salad and slaw. Thinking to myself that sauce may be used as a mask, I luckily caught the waitress in enough time for her to scurry back to the kitchen to relay my request of no sauce. I went for the rib first which had a faint smoky flavor, came off the bone too easy and was absent of rub. The brisket was dry and I thought I hit hints of Mesquite in the taste but my taste buds were mostly sensitive to a pot roast flavor. Even the fatty piece was underdeveloped from the previous days smoking.

Fischer's smoked sausage is some of my favorite. Growing up with frequent trips to the meat market - it brings back childhood memories of enjoying sliced sausage and smoked cheddar cheese held together by saltine crackers. Sadly enough they did no justice to this pleasant memory by throwing it on the stove top. My childhood innocence has now been robbed. By a stove top. 

Before leaving I spoke to the gentlemen at the counter who confirmed that all they use is Mesquite because it's easy to get around here. They thought about and briefly tried Hickory but that's very difficult to come by he said. I can think of a few places that use Hickory with no supply or demand issues.

Like a father who still displays dusty state champion trophies from high school or a former pageant queen desperately clinging to that tiara, sometimes you just have to let go of who you use to be and recognize who you presently are. After that moment, you may have acquired an ability to initiate change. At some point Metzler's may have served remarkable BBQ but with utmost certainty, the old pitmaster isn't overlooking the process which kept them in business for 66 years. There is opportunity here but if they enjoy living in the past while disservicing customers - maybe it's time to take down the misleading faded navy blue banner. Besides, Rudy's is right around the corner.

Thursday, August 1, 2013

Cafe Momentum and the Pitmaster's Picnic.

What is an "at-risk youth"? Have you ever wondered what puts a pre-teen or young teenager in the "at-risk" category? The adjective form of at-risk reads of "being endangered, as from exposure to disease or from a lack of parental or familial guidance and proper health care," from one source. Merriam-Webster defines the word risk as the "possibility of loss or injury."

Youth is defined as "the time of life when one is young; especially : the period between childhood and maturity".

The period between childhood and maturity. The period where innocence is most fragile resulting in a higher chance of becoming lost. The period where without positive leadership in a desperate environment - a child can become labeled as at-risk.

Most think of at-risk youth as being from a crime-ridden urban dwelling. This is not always so. We rarely view a child living in an upper class neighborhood from far North Dallas as being at-risk. However, they too may lack certain guidance and healthy leadership thus resulting in damaged morals and standards. The painfully lonely and confusing period between childhood and maturity for them does not discriminate between poverty and wealth.

We can do one of two things as a society. Ignore the problem entirely and shake our heads later in disgust or face the problem head on by wreaking havoc on darkness through positive outreach. If we choose the second, we've the opportunity to successfully prevent this downward spiral and assist in their self-worth becoming realized.

Chad Houser chose the latter. As long time Chef at the Oak Lawn restaurant, Parigi, a self-described "neighborhood bistro," Chad made the decision to leave in August 2012 to concentrate full-time on another culinary creation, Café Momentum. Assisting Chad was another Parigi Chef by the name of Janice Provost and from there these two would continue to grow it out of it's stages of infancy.

There was something quite different with this new food venture as it had no storefront and would rely heavily on the ever-so-popular "pop-up" restaurant themed events. It would also involve a group which most would've deemed worthless, disadvantaged and already lost, the Dallas County Youth Village (DCYV) also known as "at-risk youth."

The DCYV are young men between ages 13-17 who are at that pivotal moment, returning to their same environment with one leg to stand on while the vicious cycle continues until they wind back into a juvenile detention center. Unfortunately not all of us had someone taking our hands to show us that there is more to life than a bleak future on the streets. Fortunately there are people who exist, willing to step into that role as a complete stranger and guide, to expose a brighter future.

From this point forward - the term at-risk will be obsolete because there is not one of us who hasn't made mistakes growing up and some, if not most, continue making poor decisions well into our adult lives. The late great Hank Williams sang it best, "So unless you have made no mistakes in your life, Be careful of stones that you throw." We cannot allow ourselves to define them by their past. To be a positive changing factor in someone's life we must not label them as anything other than success.

I first came into contact with Chad previous to an event when I was following Jack Perkins around his new barbecue venture, The Slow Bone, located on Industrial Blvd. It was here that Jack offered his building and parking lot for Café Momentum's latest "pop-up" theme - the Pitmaster's Picnic. Knowing this in advance I reached out to Stephen Joseph of Joseph's Riverport Bar-B-Que in Jefferson, TX to offer my assistance. The final lineup would include The Slow Bone, Stanley's Famous Pit, Pecan Lodge, Lockhart Smokehouse, Louie Mueller's and of course Joseph's Riverport. To keep it short, some of the greatest cooks within the Texas barbecue scene who have some of the biggest hearts.

The day of the event, Sunday July 7th, was met with anticipation. I arrived at The Slow Bone mid-morning to meet Stephen and his Riverport crew after their early morning haul from Jefferson. While waiting out the lunch crowd, talking all things barbecue, and listening to Jack's humorously embellished tirades about whatever came to his mind, the worker's and volunteers of Café Momentum begin to arrive.

While it's clear that Chad is the brains behind the operation, board member Terry Lynn Crenshaw was the mover and shaker for the day. A personal Chef by trade she was omnipresent over the site, instructing the young men of their duties and overseeing the event's step by step process. Mainly she could be found chatting away and laughing. A lot. A true asset to the inner-workings of Café Momentum would be an understatement.

By evening time, the tents were set up with food ready, red and white checkered clothes covering the tables and the crowd's arrival imminent. Before the serving hour, Chad brought the young men around to each pitmaster's table to introduce themselves. Each one had a handshake more firm than the last and carried a well-mannered demeanor with every "Hi, my name is" and "Pleased to meet you sir." The moment I recognized what Chad already had - happened while standing from a location where I could see each pitmaster's area. What I saw were these "young men" interacting with each pitmaster and being engaged. Not ignored.

As evident from the crowd in attendance, Café Momentum has a strong and loyal following. Over half of the crowd were repeat eaters and those fans stayed a bit longer to hear an announcement that had been published a week prior in Dallas Observer's Food Blog "City of Ate."

Understand that the whole time Chad has been conducting these dining events, he still had a bigger vision. This vision included having a brick and mortar where the young men of DCYV would have a positive environment to learn skills and work ethics which would benefit them more than one could imagine. With a grant from the United Way to the tune of $175,000 - Chad's brick and mortar is that much closer to reality. This announcement was met with inspiring cheers and applause from the Café Momentum faithful. It seemed as if they want to see this project all the way through to completion more than Chad. In a sense, they are partners as well and I don't believe anyone would disagree.

Many times I've heard people say "If I had a million dollars I could help a charity". My newly found personal motto is "If you don't help when you have nothing, what's going to change when you have something?" Since Café Momentum's first pop-up in June 2011, some of Dallas' finest restaurants and Chefs in the dining scene have offered their services. This has helped Chad build upon his reputation and credibility while acquiring an evolving belief in his work. Café Momentum still gets by with a little help from some friends but when you put it into perspective, it really does take a village to raise a child.

www.cafemomentum.org

Sunday, July 28, 2013

So you want to start a Competitive BBQ Team huh?

Disclaimer for those with a lack of humor - this is meant to a be light-hearted satire filled guide, poking fun at every BBQ stereotype. And the Dallas Cowboys.

In The Beginning...

A group of guys with a love of meat while being under the influence of beer is usually the origin of an idea for starting a Competitive BBQ Team. Backside elements such as avoiding weekend chores from the wife, the Dallas Cowboy's season has finished early - again, and an opportunity to beat the male chest in a gorilla-like fashion while touting oneself as the BBQ King also factor in.

What does competing mean in the long run? What is the attraction to the lack of sleep, careful planning and execution, and grit involved in a BBQ competition? Why do folks travel all over the country with self-supported logistics - dissecting the fine line of good and great - to either have success or go home defeated while taking a financial and egotistical hit? For the majority - it is simple. The allure of being outdoors amongst your BBQ brethren with food, fellowship and fun is the reason. You may leave with an empty pocket or hurt feelings because reality just woke you up with a 39th place out of 40 in the Rib Category but one thing that won't leave you is the overall experience.

After all this and you still desire to start a team - then your heart and mind are in the right place and the next question you must ask yourself is "How do I begin?" First put that beer down and knock out the chores because your wife isn't going anywhere and the Dallas Cowboys are still mediocre.

The "Honey-Do" List of BBQ.

Before dreaming of which Texas lake you'll be using the new rod and reel bought with your first place brisket cash, you must first have a plan for your new team. Start by having a name. This is critical because it defines who you are. At this monumental moment in your life, you become a brand and if you do well and ride the competition circuit, you will forever be known as the brand you've created. The Meat Monkeys, Rib-kateers, and BBQ Bunny Rabbits are all good and great but make sure it's internally agreed upon and t-shirt worthy.

Secondly - recognize each team member's strengths and weaknesses. This can take many weekends of backyard smoking for the time sensitive proteins like brisket and pork butt and multiple weeknights for the lesser timed products such as ribs and chicken. You may have to sit on your pride with this one because your buddy's brisket may pack a heavier punch than yours. BBQ crybabies are not allowed nor a great team name...self-chosen or involuntarily given.

Team sizes are usually dictated within competition rules so it's important to gain familiarity with each competition's guide. Because of the "too many chiefs - not enough Indians" analogy, choosing a head cook would be wise. Sometimes overlooked but equally important is having an extra hand or "yuk monkey". They may be your greatest asset since the cooks are busy being face first in smoke. Someone crossing the T's and dotting the I's behind the scenes is crucial to the team mechanics and overall success. Ask any great Pitmaster this and if they don't agree - then they're struggling somewhere. Let's put it this way, a truck will be idle without fuel, oil and Waylon Jennings on the stereo right!?

The next important - no the most critical step in the team formation process is the smoker and wood choice. Dependent upon the amount of categories you choose to enter or pounds of protein you will be cooking is how you should gauge the smoker size. That should also be a good indication of how many strings of wood will be needed as well as charcoal and wood pellet amount.

A shout out to the self-appointed safety experts reading this - a fire extinguisher within arms reach would be a smart idea too. Of course we all have that buddy who says, "Here. Hold this," while handing you his can of Budweiser then proceeding to remove his shirt before doing something incredibly stupid. For our wannabe Evil Knievals - first-aid kits can be found at your local retail giant and should be kept on site.

Alright so you have all your supplies and you're ready to do battle - but have you thought about being prepared for the outdoor elements? Learn the site size your team will be allotted and bring canopies. A gorgeous sunny day is your best friend until you find yourself over-cooked and miserable. Of course be ready for the opposite of sun as well - rain, wind, and in case of the Armageddon - you're on your own. Researching how different weather can effect cooking should not be taken lightly. Mother Nature may be a vegetarian.

As far as manning the pit for 14 hours - you may want to have lawn chairs and comfortable footwear. If you're not allowed to have an RV right near the cook-site and must sleep on a cot - bring insect repellent. Reminded of the legendary Far Side comic where the explorers grab an aerosol can of "ON" instead of "OFF" and being swarmed by mosquitos is not the situation you want to find yourself in. Repellent candles are environmentally friendly, economical and very efficient in the war against bugs. If you choose to bring your wife or girlfriend along - let her choose the scent. She'll appreciate being a "valued" team member. This is one of many ways to include a woman in a predominately "male" hobby but you never know...she may be the next Diva Q.

Meat Management: 101

Assuming that everything is going smoothly and your buddy hasn't done anything incredibly stupid - meaning your first-aid kit hasn't been cracked open - it's now time to cook and deliver. Keep in mind that while cooking, keeping proper sanitation of your team site is not only a judge-worthy category but also the right thing to do. No one wants to die from food poisoning because of unclean cooking practices and cross-contamination. Health coordinators are usually on-site and will enforce sterile technique. Standards should never be compromised. As far as littering, most of us remember the commercial where the lone Indian sheds a single tear because trash is covering the beautiful land in the background - don't be the team to bring a tear to anyone's eye.

Be prepared for having the meat ready for inspection prior to cooking. Attempting to gain a head start over your competition by injecting, soaking/marinating, and pre-cooking are some of the methods used and is like playing baseball on steroids. Bottom line, you will get yourself disqualified. Temperatures for meat inspection before cooking are on average 40* and after cooking - an average temperature of 140* must be maintained. This is where thermometers shouldn't be forgotten back at home and again, read the rules!

Keeping a close watch on the clock for judging times should be everyone's job. The Army saying that "two is one and one is nothing," is a general rule of thumb in preparation for field operations. I would recommend having a designated location for two - not one - but two clocks set simultaneously. Different meats cook at different speeds (depending on weight of course) which will need to be closely monitored and coordinated with the judging times for each category. As Twitter follower Nick Dunin (@atcNick) suggested - have a timeline written out as you cook because minor steps can easily be missed while staggering times.

With a mix of American ingenuity and intentional gluttony - we have attempted to deep fry any kind of food possible for State Fair awards. You could say this occurs within the BBQ community as the "Mystery" category is frequently found in competitions. This addition can get the creative juices flowing and piques interest among judges, teams and the public alike. Here's your opportunity to become a free-spirited meat hippie.

We're all winners.

A quote from Texas Monthly Barbecue editor Daniel Vaughn to me is forever seared into my mind. "With great barbecue comes great humility." So your team entered with high expectations but didn't make the top three in any category. Take it on the chin this time and continue to perfect your cooking skills and in the meantime become ready for the next competition. Learn as much and as often as given the chance!

Many competitions are tied into charities and helping the less fortunate is more rewarding than an animal shaped trophy any day. When you have the opportunity to help those in need by elevating your hobby to the next level - humbling experiences can be taken away from this - that is if your heart and mind are in the right place. There are many charity organizations available who hold cook-offs and I implore you to seek them out.

So - what does competing mean in the long run? I cannot give you the answer. That's something for you to discover but I will be glad to join anyone's team if they need a "yuk monkey". I'm pretty good at emptying cans of Budweiser and cleaning but when it comes to jokes - you won't find me anywhere near the top three. Ask my ex-girlfriends. Now get out there and beat your chest.