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Tuesday, April 15, 2014

Local team, Meat Church, to appear on Season 5 of BBQ Pitmaster's.



Before the turn of the New Year, a minor Twitter cowshit storm was brought about by Waxahachie resident, Matt Pittman. The reason was to get his competition team, Meat Church, on the upcoming season of BBQ Pitmaster’s. The $50,000 cash prize and an invite to the Kingsford competition doesn't hurt either.

Taking advantage of a few influential barbecue friends on social media (even the Dallas Observer), he and brother Josh Pittman, were able to generate enough interest to catch the attention of BBQ Pitmaster’s creator John Markus. Apparently everyone (and their barbecue-loving-mothers), pissed Markus off from the unbridled amount of Tweets aimed his way.

(Photo by Cody Neathery)

“Please, I am asking that you call off those lobbying us to put you on,” Markus pleaded in a direct message to Pittman's Twitter account. “Enough, ok? Network has made decisions. So sight tight.” Needless to say, after Markus’s passive aggressive requests for calm from the Twitter barbecue cult, Meat Church was selected to prove their cooking skills. 

When asked why he wanted to get on the program,“I’ve been to all the joints. Watched all the shows. Think I can beat anyone,” Pittman answered stoically, before swearing me to secrecy due to a non-disclosure act by the network. “I’m just a regular Joe trying to slay the dragon.” Smoking the dragon may be more appropriate in this case.

(Photo courtesy of Matt Pittman)

Pittman got his start smoking meat on the Big Green Egg and will be participating at The Texas Egg Fest down in Austin on April 26th. Dallas’s very own, Kent Rathbun, Chef/Owner of Abacus, Jasper’s, and Rathbun’s Blue Plate Kitchen, will be joining as well.
Pittman may have the best locks amongst the smoked meat community, but can he bring the heat? There will be a watching party –open to the public –this Saturday, April 19th, at Lockhart Smokehouse. The show begins at 8 P.M.

Tuesday, March 18, 2014

The Blind Butcher of lower Greenville.

Follow on Twitter: @DFWBBQ

With an endless amount of steakhouses in and around Dallas, one genre that hasn’t been tapped is a bar with a meat centered menu. In short, a watering hole where a guest can enjoy a Notary (similar to an Old Fashion) while hanging out at a meat counter. This constitutes for personal jubilation.

At The Blind Butcher, Goodfriend owners Matt Tobin and Josh Yingling, kept the interior simple, yet classic.  It has the welcomed appearance of a prohibition era saloon, but also offers neighborhood warmth fitting for Greenville Avenue.
Upon entering, you'll notice all furnishings are painted black, and there isn’t much light beside the soft glow from wall lamps and flatscreen TVs. Taking a seat on a barstool will guarantee a bartender's introduction with a handshake and you may catch yourself people watching via the bar’s giant mirror. I imagine a small room full of cigar smoking, fedora wearing gamblers tucked in the rear but in reality, a spacious patio with another bar.

Big Meat board (photo by Greg Cella)

After several visits since February, I’ve been impressed each time with both new items and the consistency of previous items ordered. The front of the menu is divided by snacks (appetizers rather), boards for sharing, and hand cranked sausages. Aside from the cocktail and beer menu, I find this to be all one needs to enjoy their inaugural experience here. Actually the only two items we ordered from the back of the menu was Pork Belly Poutine and Duck Fat Fries.

The Pig Ears, served with a side of orange aioli, are fried with an unassuming chewiness due to a thin piece of cartilage within. During our last visit, an agreement among the table was an improvement on the already great tasting snack. The house-cured Pastrami eggrolls were also still a favorite.

Ordered on the second visit was the Big Meat Board. This is your man’s man dish. Having enough meat to feed four, the protein is a selection of daily specials. What stood out on this evening were the bison short rib and stuffed chicken.

When it came time to sample the sausage, you cannot simply deny an opportunity to devour Duck Foie Gras sausage with chutney. For a less pretentious sounding choice, the bacon bratwurst with sauerkraut was also carefully selected.


The Duck Foie Gras stood out between the two, having a deeply rich and satisfying flavor. The bacon brat, though  composed of a completely different animal, made it tough to be comparable. However, the brat refused to settle for anything less than approval in taste.

Tangent: Bacon is the cornerstone of the American way of life by celebration of gluttony. The only way to disrespect bacon is to fry it. Sure, throw rocks at me. Then go make your own bacon and ovenize it. After this, you will never ever purchase Kroger bacon again or fry it. If you do, be prepared for my rock hurling.

Poutine's popularity in Canada is equivalent to Hawaii's obsession with Spam. Because of it's recent arrival on local dining tables, the Blind Butcher has three styles to choose from. While sparse of meat and not quite as tender, the Pork Belly Poutine was unique in the flavor delivery. In addition to the belly, layered on a pile of fries was a smoky gravy and cheese curds.

Blind Butcher wall menu (photo by Greg Cella)

I found this to be a choice go-to dish after a few late night beers from their sexy  menu of libations. The Chips and Beer cheese were also lightly decorated with duck pastrami and beer goat cheese, on what seemed to be generic potato chips.

Chef Oliver Sitrin has quietly carved a spot in the upper echelon of local meat purveyors with his unique menu and specialty sausages. The Blind Butcher is a must for meat aficionados to engage their digestive system. But most important is that you can shop for hand cranked sausage –  while sipping a Notary.

Monday, March 3, 2014

BBQ Events for the spring.

Things we like about March – Fat Tuesday, St. Patty’s Day, March Madness, and the beginning of spring. Items we dislike about March – sub-freezing weather.

With the constant threat of an Icepocalypse lurking and ready to expose its ice cubes at any given moment, it may be difficult to envision being outside, frolicking in 70-something degree weather. Do not fear, because like weathermen whose job is stating the obvious of hot or cold, I say it’s a safe bet you will be romping around in a field of blue bonnets.

You know what is better than illegally picking our state’s designated flower? Barbecue.  So, before you find yourself in the county jail with a pocket full of blue bonnets, how about getting grease on your shirt at one, or all, of these upcoming barbecue events.

·        You’re going to need to soak up all the alcohol from the prior weekend’s Dallas Observer Greenville Avenue St. Patty’s Day Parade (could the name be any longer?), so mosey on over to the Fort Worth Stockyards on March. 21-22. The International Barbecue Association Cook-off holds the 'Fort Worth Cops for Kids' competition with over 100 teams cooking meat in support of disadvantaged youth. Find your best handkerchief, head west, donate, and eat. Easy right!? www.fortworthstockyards.org

·        Houston has seldom been known for good barbecue. Once the Oilers left for Tennessee, there hasn’t been much to discuss. Not that either is actually related. Well, Houston no longer has a problem, and the barbecue has upped its game with CorkScrew BBQ and the recently opened Killen’s BBQ. Now the city will be hosting the 2nd annual Houston BBQ Fest at Reliant Park on April 6th. General admission tickets are $50 and $90 for VIP. A portion of proceeds also help Vita-Living, Inc. who supports people with disabilities. www.houbbq.com

·        Outdoors, live music, and beer. What if we combined those aforementioned items with 15 of the best barbecue joints in Texas? Well I’m no magician, and we've established I’m just as reliable as a weatherman – there is such an event. On May 3rd, The Red Dirt BBQ Fest in Tyler will be providing music from the Randy Rogers Band, Whiskey Myers, and Green River Ordinance, while barbecue from local favorites such as Hutchin’s BBQ, Cousin’s BBQ, The Slow Bone, and Lockhart Smokehouse will be serving up their meat stuff. I’d said that’s worth the hour and half drive east. www.reddirtbbqfest.com

Tuesday, February 11, 2014

LUCK (Local Urban Craft Kitchen), Dallas, TX

If you have never seen a strip mall of restaurants before, behold Phil Romano’s Trinity Groves. His restaurant concept has singlehandedly baked, taken, and devoured the cake – even if it was slightly overdone.

From the kitschy outside appearance – likely due to a Christmas light sale at Costco – to the massive flaming rock columns beckoning you into the coliseum of window shopping for food, Romano went full-fledged Liberace with this.

Upon initial eye contact, it is overwhelming in a childlike sense of wonder kind of way. Once your burned retinas have adjusted to the electric light orchestra, the uniqueness will captivate you.

Entering this dining compound, one conspicuous detail sticks out – each patio was constructed with nothing more in mind than simplicity. A striped down approach was taken –purposefully or not – and unfortunately, this lack of architectural ambition does not match tenants such as Casa Rubia and Resto’s individuality when it comes to their interior design.
While this concrete uniformity may not translate well with the more upscale destinations, it works effortlessly with LUCK (Local Urban Craft Kitchen). Opened in late October of 2013, this gastropub relies on local craft beer while serving variations of regional dishes.

For starters, bierrocks, breaded shrimp, and the pretzels were ordered. The breaded shrimp was less memorable, while the pretzels were as appealing as I’d expect from a homemade pretzel.

Coming three to an order, the bierrocks were reminiscent of the Czech pastry, Klobasnek, which can be found on the way to Austin in West, TX.  With a fluffy texture from the marginally sweet bread, the ground beef and cheese contents meshed well together. Complementing this appetizer was beer cheese and au jus for your dipping pleasure.
For our main entrees, our table of eight ordered the pastrami sandwich, fish and chips, shrimp and grits, pozole, torta de lengua, and pork schnitzel. Sadly, the shrimp and grits were under seasoned with the grits more liquefied in the bowl. The pork schnitzel didn’t exactly set fire to my lenden (Google translate) either, as it was a tad bland. Their fish and chips were good, but you can locate better in one of Dallas’ Irish pub knockoffs, and there are plenty of those to kick your little green shamrocks in.

Having never tried pozole before, this is one dish of LUCK’s that threw a better right hook than those previously mentioned. Again, a pozole rookie here, but without an overabundance of spice, the pork and hominy stew were well seasoned and came across even tempered upon inhalation. A second bowl was ordered.
For LUCK not being a barbecue restaurant that only concentrates on smoked meat, I found the pastrami to have been cooked nicely. Thick slices of meat served between two slices of sourdough bread, along with caramelized onions, ground mustard and a slice of Swiss – this is a well above average bar sandwich. But also, your average bar doesn’t turn brisket into pastrami. And for that reason, try the meat as separate from the sandwich as it’ll allow the pre-smoking brine to be more palpable upon taste.

Recently, I was told not to eat anything that could lick me. Well I do, but I can’t recall much detail about the torta de lengua other than it was enjoyed very much. By this point, my third high ABV beer was about finished, and so was I.
LUCK does craft beer extraordinarily well; but they have some minor misses on the menu. Clearly taking more cues from south of the border and eastern Europe, and given they’ve been open three months and some change, the consistency isn’t there yet.

What the other restaurants in Trinity Grove lack from not having a bar, LUCK provides a closure to that gap. With better than average food, it is an enjoyable spot to relax and attempt to navigate through all 40 taps. Considering most of their inventory hovers around 8% ABV, that’s one challenge I’d like to see.

Sunday, January 26, 2014

El Come Taco - going where no Dallas Taco joint has gone before.


I typically stick to smoked meat when writing, but sometimes I need to step outside my self-imposed box and broaden my horizons. Why not do so with my second love?

The taco.

A simple yet versatile concoction of cooked meat, diced cilantro and onions snuggled in a corn tortilla, often doubled up for durability. Like barbecue, if the meat is cooked right, sauce is unnecessary -- though it can be great company.

I’m no taco connoisseur like Taco Trail’s author, Jose Ralat, but when he speaks highly of a taco joint, I pay attention. It’s not often – if ever – I make a dedicated trip to a taqueria beside a late night drunken stop the closest one I locate. When Ralat's photo of a taco from El Come Taco appeared on Instagram, my taste buds started talking.

Although the novelty taco can be entertaining and seemingly adventurous, do they serve sesos or tripas or could they pull off a taco filled with chapulines? No. If you do not know what any of those words mean, allow me to translate – veal brains, calf intestines, and grasshoppers. Yes, grasshoppers.


Growing up in Mexico City, brothers Luis and Javier Villalva worked for their family’s taqueria. Later on, older brother Luis found himself managing Café San Miguel then a little spot over in Ft. Worth known as Revolver Taco Lounge. 

With well over 10 years’ experience between the two and a plan, both combined their love of traditional street food with El Come Taco. The restaurant opened roughly eight weeks ago and has quickly gained fans and ground in the local taco scene. Lucky for us, they chose Dallas for their establishment.

Offering attractive hours for the late night crowd, I decided on going a bit later on a Thursday night. You’ll find El Come Taco situated in a small strip center along Fitzhugh Avenue with only a banner announcing its existence.

On the inside is a brightly colored polished, yet bare restaurant filled with tables, one TV, and a beverage cooler. There is also a dining bar along one wall. Each table has the burnt logo of the restaurant which is the calavera, or a skull -- a symbol mostly associated with the Mexican holiday Dia de los Muertos.

According to Luis, the chalkboard menu provides a well representation of traditional street food found in Mexico City. Javier said several customers have asked for the chapulines taco due to Ralat's  photo – the same photo that attracted me.

Luis stated he would like to make it a permanent item at some point. He even hinted at the possibility of the Maguey worm becoming a filling for tacos. The Maguey worm can either be a caterpillar or larva, dependent upon the color distinction. They feed off the agave plant in central Mexico, and this is one reason distribution would be difficult.


I ordered the lengua (tongue), pastor, pollo marinado, tripas, sesos, and campechano, which is a mixture of brisket and chorizo. Beside the lengua, each meat was cooked to a nice crisp texture, thus eliminating any possibility of slimy meat that could harm the integrity of the tortilla. No one likes a soggy tortilla.

The generous amount of cilantro can be overwhelming and may jeopardize the flavor of the meat, so remedy this by removing as much or as little to taste. You have a choice of four sauces and every bottle is meant to be paired with different meats, as evident by the hand-written labels on the lids.

Providing a bit of heat, I found the green avocado sauce to be the most delectable. The other three sauces were a bit less flavorful and mild than one may expect. However, they’re worth trying a few drops with the respected taco pairings.

The menu doesn’t yield to tacos only. You’ll also find tortas, gringas, and even postres. After a quick education on traditional street tacos and listening to the direction the Villalva brothers want to go in, I suspect they will continue moving into a territory that other local taco joints have yet to venture into.

Saturday, January 25, 2014

Lockhart Smokehouse, Plano, TX - a first look.


Crossing over the DART tracks into downtown Plano, you will quickly notice new construction surrounding the area off 15th Street. With a recent article from the Dallas Morning News of the city's planned mixed development sprawl southward, it’s not far-fetched to say downtown Plano is very similar to Bishop Arts District.

Already there is a healthy mix of shops, restaurants and bars such as Vickery Park, Fillmore Pub, and Kelly’s Eastside. In 2012, Urban Crust spawned a Tex-Mex sister, Urban Rio, and more recently the popular food truck, Cajun Tailgaters, moved into a brick and mortar.

Adding to the downtown diversity was the announcement of Lockhart Smokehouse's second location in the summer of 2013. December was initially the target month for open doors, but unfortunately this did not occur.

Owner Jeff Bergus said of the date being pushed back, “With every business, there will always be hurdles to jump over, but we’re close. I expect us opening within the next couple weeks.”

After an October fire to neighboring restaurant Zanata, the city of Plano tightened the reins on their plans. The pits had to be enclosed within a separate brick structure. Being housed in a building over 100 years old, Lockhart's owners obliged due to the safety factors involved.
Owner Jill Bergus was elated to have found a location with such history, and the preservation of its character played an important part during the renovation. “We just seem to fall into dumb luck," she said. "Between the Bishop Arts location and here, just luck.”


Originally there was a downtown McKinney location mapped out before that deal fell through. Though disappointed, Jill was content saying, “Because of that not working out, it gave us another year of learning and planning. I believe we’re in a much better position now.”

“This location gives us something we didn’t have before -- more space to accommodate our customer’s needs. There will be an upstairs dining area which will have a bar over looking the restaurant, and will also serve as dual purpose for an event space," she said.

Wanting to maintain as much of the building's original appearance as possible, they kept partially exposed brick walls, wooden floors, and an exposed ceiling. During the renovation, an old well was found where the downstairs bar is situated. This dated back to when every building had its own well for precautionary measures in case of a downtown fire.


As far as the menu goes, it will remain the same as the Bishop Arts location with a robust local craft beer selection. The service line will be more fluid from entrance to chopping block. One thing the Bergus' didn’t want to do was separate their customers from the quintessential barbecue experience and not allow them the opportunity to view the cutting of the meat.

With the first annual Suburbia Fest being announced earlier this month, there’s no denying Plano is becoming an eclectic place to live and play. If there was anything missing to the downtown's puzzle, Lockhart Smokehouse aims to put that piece in place.

Wednesday, January 15, 2014

Barbecue without a wait - Austin, Texas.

Spring is around the corner and many folk will find themselves making a pilgrimage to Austin or at least a pit stop on their way to one of the state’s many natural water sources. Regardless of why you want to go down south and get weird, nobody has time to spare while on vacation – especially in lines.

When it comes to lines, we scoff; cursing those ahead of us for taking too long, since it’s their fault they arrived earlier than us. Our choices are to leave or continue practicing half-assed patience.

Admittedly, there’s a certain sense of entitlement married with accomplishment when we are the ones everyone else is waiting for. You always know that everyone else is now cursing you but you pretend to not notice. You’ve waited your turn and couldn't care less if anyone else gets theirs.

This may not seem as big of a deal when it comes to gas station lines or the drive-thru at Starbucks because luckily for every American, there’s another gas station down the road and three Starbucks before that. However, when it comes to getting your smoked meat fix, a line often determines our perception. Although great taste and long lines can be synonymous, remember kids – looks can be deceiving.
Bragging about how you braved a line for hours just to eat somewhere doesn’t gain you any life points and in fact, makes you seem as awesome as a Galveston postcard from the 80’s. How about trying somewhere new and getting your fix – without a wait. With that being said, here’s a short list for your convenience.

Valentina’s Tex Mex BBQ – 600 W. 6th St. (Behind Star Bar). Open 5 pm Mon & Tues, Lunch/Dinner only Wed through Fri and all day Sat and Sun.
When coming to this food trailer, toss any stereotypes of how Texas barbecue should be served out the window. While the meat is smoked in the traditional manner, the Tex Mex angle comes from how the food is served. The simple menu is divided into two sections; Tex and Mex. Under the Tex you have sandwiches loaded with your meat of choice while under the Mex, you will find the same meat, though snuggled in a tortilla, handmade onsite. Order the smoked brisket taco with guacamole and tomato Serrano salsa and the smoked carnitas taco that includes caramelized onions, cilantro and a tomatillo habanero salsa, which is quite mild. At this point, you’ll forever forget those barbecue stereotypes.

Micklethwait Craft Meats – 1309 Rosewood Ave. (East Austin). Open Wed through Sat, 11 am - 3pm & 4:30 - 8pm. Sun 11 am – 3 pm.
Smartly located down the street from Franklin Barbecue, this canvas of a trailer has emerged from the shadow of the aforementioned top barbecue joint of the world. Here you will not only find a near perfect plate of smoked meat but some of the best sides to accompany a barbecue joint. Owner/Pit Master Tom Micklethwait is also crafty in the world of handmade sausage. One day he may concoct pork belly Andouille and the next, Thai sausage. His sausages are true to the word artisanal. Order the three meat plate for $14 and allow Tom’s meat to surprise you.

La Barbecue – 1200 E. 6th St. (East Austin). Open Wed – Sun, 11 am until sold out.

If you must deal with any line, here’s a place worth waiting for. Having recently moved from their location on South 1st, the line isn’t a nightmare though it can be a consistently long at times. No fear – with live music on the weekends and free beer, this wait is the most tolerable of them all. My recommendation here is to purchase a handmade link of Pit Master John Lewis’s all beef sausage, along with the well seasoned pork ribs and a thick slice of fatty brisket. If you're wise, order one succulent beef rib and take it to go. Big Red is an encouraged liquid partner to your meal.

Pro-tip: Call ahead the day before or day of, walk past the line while getting cursed and pick up your order. That’s something worth bragging about.
Kerlin BBQ – 1700 E. Cesar Chavez (East Austin). Open Wed through Sun, 11 am through 3 pm or sold out.

Recently opened Kerlin BBQ has made a ripple in the Austin barbecue scene. Of course they have the whole no line thing but once you try Bill Kerlin’s brisket and ribs, you’ll be scratching your head as to why there isn’t a line. Being in close proximity to other barbecue joints with a hellish DMV style line, Kerlin BBQ is smoking superb meat worth skipping a line for. Try one slice of lean and one slice of moist with the ribs. Ask for extra pickles to dip  in the BBQ sauce and hum along with the music of Waylon Jennings.
Freedmen’s Bar – 2402 San Gabriel St. (West Campus). Open Tues through Sat, 11 am – 12 am. Brunch starting at 11 am on Sunday.

Evan LeRoy has seemingly mastered the craft of not only smoked meat but smoked food overall. After tasting his barbecue, one may think that a pit master, decades older, is cooking but he has accomplished this level of prowess while only in his mid-20’s. Although open for lunch with great specials, the historic building which houses the restaurant, truly comes to life upon dusk. Order the Holy Trinity with smoked beats and grilled cabbage slaw while sitting in the patio under strands of party bulbs. After tossing back a cocktail of your choosing, finish the night off with smoked banana pudding. All this and no line.

Monday, December 16, 2013

Work Bar and Grill in Deep Ellum.

The on-off again relationship Dallasites have with Deep Ellum is reminiscent to the turbulent Bobby Brown/Whitney Houston train wreck where they couldn't break up because in the end, they really needed each other. Or something like that.

Crowds give false hope by having a great time, then bail when bored. They leave a path of tears and heartbreak, destroying all hopes of Deep Ellum's rise from obscurity which ultimately goes back to emptiness and dilapidation. The relationship with Deep Ellum is on -- for the time being.

Restaurants, bars and other tenants are finding new homes in a neighborhood that has no reason to ever be vacant. The difference with this kick start to Deep Ellum's heart, that may keep the pulse strong, is the emergence of respectable restaurants -- not an oversaturation of seedy bars or dance clubs, which have become destination trips for their customer base.

One such new restaurant, Work Bar and Grill, opened it's doors in April 2013. The restaurant can be viewed as a novelty sports bar with scantily dressed waitresses, which unfortunately are everywhere, but also has an upscale industrial theme.

Owner/Pitmaster Doug Pickering has brought not necessarily a new concept to life, but one which can thrive if it catches the right crowd. He also may have unknowingly made one of the brightest business moves in Dallas for a barbecue restaurant. With the recent news of Pecan Lodge's relocation to Deep Ellum, those meat travelers who arrive at Pecan Lodge then choose not to wait in line will find Work within walking distance.

Without labeling themselves as solely a barbecue restaurant, they do rely heavily on smoked meat. The menu itself is very diverse, catering to other palates with offerings such as buffalo fried oysters, mussels, and bacon wrapped prawns. There are plenty of green options for those who dig that sort of thing.

I planned my visit around their Thursday-night-only rib offering. Due to my reconnaissance, I discovered the ribs were to be ready by 7 pm. Upon my arrival to a steady, but not overly busy crowd, the disappointing news from the waitress was around 8 pm: They were already out of ribs. I would imagine for a one night per week special, there would be a higher quantity smoked if they sell out in an hour. Early bird gets the pork, I suppose.


The Sugar Cookie brisket was ordered with the sides of choosing being the Potato Salad and Purple Haze Ginger Coleslaw. After the discovery the sausage was that of commercial variety (boggles my mind when there are a handful of local meat markets nearby) and for $4 extra, I opted to add protein by ordering the pulled pork.

With a hearty amount of brisket displayed, no time was wasted digging in. The bark was distinctively good and there were several brilliant bites of meat, more often there were bites which caused my jaw to do a bit more work than I would've preferred. On these slices, the thick fat had more of a congealed effect due to incomplete rendering. This could be remedied by a bit more trimming prior to applying the rub. The smoky flavor was exactly what one would expect and with a bit longer in the pit, every slice of meat could've been consistent deliciousness.

What was commendable was the fact theses slices of brisket were served with fat -- not lean and trimmed of all the flavoring that the average Dickey's enthusiast believes to be real Texas barbecue. While the sauce was served on the side with the brisket, the pulled pork was served with just enough on top to complement the meat.


The sides were above average without particularly standing out. Luckily, there are enough options for the next go-around.

Work Bar and Grill is worth a visit. For a restaurant with an identity crisis such as them (video arcades in the corner next to the posh lounge seating and is it a barbecue joint or not?), this is an option for the lover of smoked meat who would like to hang out for while, watch a game on one of their many flatscreen TVs and enjoy the wide selection of booze located at their saloon-style bar.

The only change I would unselfishly like to see made are the Thursday night ribs becoming a menu staple. It's normal to crave ribs during the day while regressing to your youthful days at the local Pocket Change arcade, right!?

Monday, November 18, 2013

Meat Fight...where everyone was a winner.

Judges panel. Photo by Cody Neathery.
                                           
Similar to Bo Jackson, Alice Laussade is a skilled dual threat on the field of life. No, she doesn't play football or baseball, but she writes at a comedic elevation rivaling Dallas' sky erection (Reunion Tower), and she can throw one hell of a party -- all for a reputable cause.

Started as a backyard contest among friends, 2012 was the first year Meat Fight was open to the public. It's an event like no other held in town.

With 300 tickets selling out quickly and weighing down the upstairs floor at Sons of Hermann Hall, they were able to raise $20,000 for the National Multiple Sclerosis Society. With much appreciation and gratitude toward all involved, Alice had a bigger plan for the following year.

Tiffany Derry. Photography by Cody Neathery.

Hosted at Four Corners Brewery this year, with the same blue print as before, the city’s best chefs came together to cook barbecue -- something none of them typically dabble in at their restaurants.

Usually, you will find Omar Flores piecing together seafood dishes like a puzzle at Driftwood while Tiffany Derry can sculpt elegant American cuisine. Other notable chefs included, Brian Luscher, owner of the Grape, Neighborhood Services Chef Jeff Bekavac, David Uygur of Lucia with Nathan Tate from close by Boulevardier in Bishop Arts, and Café Momentum's Chad Houser, among others.

The twist to the contest was that the best barbecue slingers from across the state would be judging their meat products. After winning "best brisket" in 2012, Slow Bone's Jack Perkins was on the judging panel along with Tim Byres of Smoke, Stephen Joseph of Riverport Barbecue, Dallas' very own barbecue highbrow and Texas Monthly's Barbecue Editor, Daniel Vaughn, Stanley's Famous Pit's Nick Pencis, Justin Fourton of Pecan Lodge, and the ZZ Top of barbecue, Lockhart Smokehouse's Will Fleischman.

Matt and Nick Offerman, Daniel Vaughn and Nick Pencis. Photo by Cody Neathery.

Adding to the table of judges was a celebrity of sorts -- the ultimate kick in the pants. Nick Offerman is a man who knows as much about wood as he does growing a voluptuous mustache. He also portrays Ron Swanson on NBC's Parks and Recreation. On the show and in real life, he is the turbulent meat loving, government disapproving, whiskey guzzling craftsman. 

Sporting a noble beard with an uncanny thirst for craft beer and hunger for smoked meat was Nick's brother Matt Offerman, who made the pilgrimage as a second guest judge. After a hearty conversation with Matt, one would discover his love of craft beer comes from being a brewer at Solemn Oath brewery in Illinois.

Team Meatallica's meat things. Photo by Cody Neathery.

With 500 tickets selling out within 5 minutes this year, doors opened at 4 pm for VIP ticket holders and 5 pm for general admission. All in attendance were bamboozled by a cornucopia of cooked animal and yes, there were veggie options for the extra-terrestrials cloaked in human flesh walking amongst the carnivores.

Three teams slugged it out for idol-like trophies of gold spray painted animals. Team Notorious P.I.G. anchored by Derry took home awards for best ribs, sausage and fish while Luscher's band, Meatallica, carried the best brisket award back to their kitchen. Scrappy team, Cool Arrows, led by fearless leader and rib diver, Houser, unfortunately wound up empty handed -- but seemingly had a fun time doing so.

Bacon donuts from Hypnotic Donuts.Photograph by Cody Neathery.

With the first annual 'Uncle Benjamin's Meatvember Beard Pageant' (which I made to the second round before a woeful dismissal) and live auction concluded, Laussade and husband Mike, made an announcement, followed by a raucous cheer from the crowd.

The total raised by Meat Fight for this year was $50,000, thus pulverizing last year's amount. And therefore, more than doubling her vision whilst raising the awareness of the fight against Multiple Sclerosis. Although being stalked by a woman convinced I was a reporter who had calmed Lady Gaga during an interview on Good Morning Texas, I give this two beefy thumbs up for a great night and an even better reason to break meat.

Monday, November 4, 2013

Texas Monthly BBQ Fest by way of Hutchin's BBQ.

It’s fairly safe to claim the Texas Monthly BBQ Festival held every November in Austin is the Christmas of smoked meat. Only the best barbecue joints in the world (which so happen to ALL lie within Texas’ borders) receive invites and tickets sell out within minutes of being electronically released. For those who are technologically challenged, a walk up option was available with food not necessarily being guaranteed.

Every ticket purchaser should leave fat from the food and happy from the food and beer. If one did not waddle away 10 lbs. heavier while in an intense state of transcendent happiness combined with an overwhelming sense of contentment – you clearly screwed up somehow.

Photo by Cody Neathery.

Five of the 21 restaurants in attendance were from Dallas-Ft. Worth or the surrounding area, with all serving stellar cuts of brisket, ribs and sausage. The line-up included Dallas’ Pecan Lodge and Lockhart Smokehouse, Ft. Worth’s Cousin’s BBQ, McKinney’s Hutchin’s BBQ, and Stanley’s Famous Pit out of Tyler. Unfortunately several other local nominees didn’t attend but from previous year’s festivals – this was a strong showing and something for north Texas to celebrate.

As a man who often gets pulled into conversations relating to the best barbecue around, one would be surprised the amount of locals who still have not tried Pecan Lodge even though they have heard the buzz surrounding them. Most don’t even know its location. Let that sink in for a bit. We’re talking about the #2 joint in the world. Dallas, wake up. It’s located in your backyard. To the mayor of Dallas – wake up because you could potentially lose them. Asinine right!?

Imagine being the owner of a top ranked joint in Texas located roughly 30 miles north of Dallas but receiving not much more recognition than what was published from Texas Monthly back in May. Not a mere mention of congratulations from its hometown that was itself, listed as Money Magazine’s number 5 town in America as a ‘Best Place to Live.’ That being said, don’t you think their hometown would have a greater appreciation and respect for a national list?

Hello McKinney, Texas – have you met what is one of the best barbecue restaurants in Texas – or in the world? If not, Hutchin’s BBQ rests conveniently near your much publicized historic square which draws thousands of tourists annually. That seems to me that there is some missed opportunity in this equation or maybe someone in the tourism department has become complacent.

Dustin Blackwell - Hutchin's BBQ. Photo by Cody Neathery.

Arriving Saturday afternoon in Austin, the ultimate barbecue camp was constructed in the backyard-style parking lot where Pitmaster John Lewis churns out some of the most admirable protein from a food trailer known as La Barbecue. An abundance of fold out chairs, unwavering amount of beer and the congregation of new and old friends alike, you couldn’t ask for a better way to spend a Saturday.

Adding to the mystique of the soft smoke billowing out of the smokestacks and next door to La Barbecue, is a small single room store geared toward the religion of Santeria. Walking myself over with child-like curiosity or maybe spiritually guided by whiskey – there inside were shelves of religious statues, candles and bottles of magical potion. Ironically enough, some find barbecue to be a religious experience with hints of superstition and luck but the real magic begins at the hands of the pitmasters.

Hutchin's BBQ rib. Photo by Cody Neathery.

On Sunday, I had the privilege of attending the fourth annual Texas Monthly BBQ Fest as a guest of Hutchin’s BBQ. Tim Hutchin and long-time best friend, Dustin Blackwell, have turned this restaurant, established in 1978, into a barbecue mecca. The consistency they brought to the Fest bested some of the state’s more highly rated barbecue joints and it showed by the constant demand from the public.

You’re always going to have an understandably or baffling (however waiting three hours rubs you) long line for the usual suspects like Franklin Barbecue, Pecan Lodge, and Snow’s BBQ, but the line for Hutchin’s was one of the most unrivaled in length between all attendees.

Understandably or baffling long lines for Franklin and Snow's. Photo by Cody Neathery.

When pointed out, Hutchins and Blackwell both quit cutting for a brief moment, visually taking in the line which had formed in front of them. Even Tim’s father and restaurant namesake, Roy Hutchins, who initially started Roy’s Smokehouse in Princeton, was present to see this achievement. There was a realization of the work and determination that their family had put into this restaurant, even overcoming a recent fire in 2012 which Tim and Dustin both claimed to be one of the “darkest moments of our lives.”

While usually overshadowed by the local favorites of Pecan Lodge and Lockhart Smokehouse, it’s refreshing to see the little guy shine on such a monumental stage like the Texas Monthly BBQ Fest. With Tim Hutchins, the quality of his brisket and ribs were on the forefront of his mind as he carefully tried to pick the best cut for each customer. Not often does one witness this consideration and humble gratitude.

Tim Hutchins - Hutchin's BBQ. Photo by Cody Neathery.

Sure Blackwell may have torn a chunk of flesh from his leg on the side of a trailer thus resulting in a gaping wound that John Lewis wanted to seal with hot coal while I readily stood by with a bottle of moonshine ready to flush out any bacteria. Of course the night was elevated with the arrival of the Stanley's Famous Pit crew when shots were appearing left and right which may have had something to do with us temporarily having no clue where we were early Sunday morning. As expected the next day was a grind, but experiences such as these make stories worth telling.

In hindsight, all the superstitions and luck charms could be tossed to the side. Mostly all it takes are years of preparation to meet one opportunity. And it all begins at the hands of a pitmaster.

Tuesday, October 22, 2013

Back Forty Smokehouse

Not many ghost towns exist in the suburbs of Dallas-Fort Worth. But if you stumble upon Smithfield, you may have just found yourself one. Congratulations on this minor victory. 

Having been established before 1870 and never growing over the population of 400, Smithfield was annexed – though I would like to imagine a bitter feud – rather peacefully as a part of North Richland Hills in 1958. What you will find remaining along the main street are a small handful of the original buildings and Smithfield Cemetery, sans victims of my imaginary bitter feud. 



Photo by Cody Neathery

Housed in a rebuilt feed store that was destroyed by a fire in 1929 is the Back Forty Smokehouse. Opened this past May 2013, it has quickly become a popular destination as a live music venue. What may be overlooked by the chords from an acoustic guitar is the surprisingly good barbecue.

Arriving shortly after opening, I was able to take my time exploring the sizeable menu while asking questions pertaining to the food. A good rule of thumb is to catch a barbecue restaurant as close to opening as possible to ensure the meat’s freshness and that there is no shortage of protein. Too many times the customer will arrive late afternoon and complain about both – unfortunately on Yelp because Americans have nothing better to do than bitch. Unless your soft serve ice cream is commendable enough to garner a 4 star review.



Photo by Cody Neathery

A quick conversation with Pitmaster Mark Payne taught me that he is of the same Payne family who started the longtime Ft. Worth favorite, Cousin’s BBQ, which has now appeared twice on the Texas Monthly top 50 list. He emphasized (without needing to explain in depth) that he has no ties to Cousin’s anymore and is 100% Back Forty Smokehouse.

After learning on and using a Bewley smoker for 30 years, Mark now uses the Southern Pride smoker that was previously installed by the former tenant of the building. After tasting the Hickory smoked brisket – I believe his technique has transitioned from an all wood to gas assisted smoker quite successfully. The bark presented a nice pop from the well-balanced rub and rendered fat.



Photo by Cody Neathery

The ribs, smoked with White Post Oak, were well above average in flavor but had a bit of a dry texture reminiscent of being exposed to open air. Anticipation is good but don’t allow it to take away from the proper presentation. Rounding out the Texas trifecta was the Jalapeno sausage. It's shipped from Miiller’s Smokehouse which has its own history being located in the serene Hill Country town of Llano, Texas.

Both the coleslaw and potato salad were found to be average and by that I mean good enough for me to eat. Whether they’re homemade or not, I didn’t ask. I would like to believe they were made in house but I would also like to believe that Elvis didn’t die on a toilet.



Photo by Cody Neathery

With a spacious outdoor patio, complete with an additional bar and TVs, it would be quite easy to locate oneself here to get away from the city for a few beers and a good time. For those who reside in the mid-cities suburbs and inside the Ft. Worth city limits, this is a great option in the region’s growing barbecue scene and for die-hard Meatheads. If Mark Payne continues smoking this noteworthy barbecue, he may be joining his family on the next Texas Monthly top 50 list.

And hey, they're open on Sundays too. So if you're like me and need something to take the edge off after sitting for an hour and half in church, there ya' go.

Wednesday, October 2, 2013

Camp Craig Allen's 7th Annual Amateur Cook-off.

This past weekend at the Bass Pro Shops in Grapevine, Texas, 48 teams braved the great monsoon of 2013 for charity Camp Craig Allen's 7th annual Amateur BBQ Cook-off. Participates included some new amateur teams like The Catalina Swinemixers and Scruffy Duffies' owner, Jerry Elliott's team, Ribs for Your Pleasure, to returning and not-so-amateur teams like Tim's Tailgate and Meat Meisters -- who were the charity sponsored team.

Camp Craig Allen was started by Dawn Cruzan in memory of her late brother, Craig, who suffered from Muscular Dystrophy. His dream was to build a camp for both disabled children and adults which would be a completely barrier-free facility full of activities without obstacles while providing personal growth and education. The mission is simple: "Camp Craig Allen is dedicated to the “overlooked” physically disabled children and physically disabled adults of North Texas. We will encourage self-awareness, positive influence, and independence in therapeutic and educational programs in an accessible environment that promotes abilities and talents of those with the most physical challenges."

(Catalina Swinemixers team members enjoying the fruits of their labor)
 
Teams assembled all day Friday and immediately fired up the smokers -- filling the air with robust hints of smoke and meat. Friday night was a Dallas Margarita Society sponsored party for $25 per ticket that included live music, a barbecue meal, and a casino tent. The following Saturday, the general public was able to purchase tickets for $10 which provided live music, contests, games and food samples provided by each team. To help increase fundraising, a silent auction was held over the weekend.

(Award winning brisket - photo by Cody Neathery)

Not only was I able to participate in an amateur team -- I had the privilege to judge the Bloody Mary and dessert categories. As a very reluctant fan of Bloody Mary's, I felt I had the upper hand as a judge. There would be no error deciding between a pungent mix and one that would immediately convert my taste buds to the greatness of this concoction. Now I understand why Willie Nelson penned a song about them.

The reward ceremony was held Saturday evening after the crowds had dispersed. The anticipation was high for every team waiting for a call. After months of planning, cooking, and hard work that go into such a competition, we walked away with three top 10 calls. A special thanks to Ye Ole Meat Market and Hirsch's Meats in Plano, Texas for their food contributions.

(Pork belly - photo by Cody Neathery)

While winning as an amateur team was fine and dandy, knowing that cooking for a greater cause outweighed that notion. During the event, disabled children and adults were visiting with each team to show their appreciation. Being able to interact and get to know the members and beneficiaries of Camp Craig Allen was the true reward.

With more local sponsorship coming from ESPN-Dallas and WFAA-Channel 8, and all those involved, the charity BBQ competition raised nearly $100,000 for Camp Craig Allen. Next year's charity cook-off will take place at the Dr. Pepper Ballpark in Frisco.

Thursday, September 26, 2013

A Texas size BBQ lunch with Trace Arnold of 3 Stacks Smoke and Tap House.

After receiving an invitation for a Texas size barbecue lunch at 3 Stacks Smoke and Tap House, there wasn't one thought of turning it down. It was an event for local food lovers to help ( in Pitmaster Trace Arnold's words ) spread the gospel of great Texas barbecue. Because of course, "once you've had the best, you won't go back to the rest."

Trace Arnold is also the creator of a massive 18-wheel smoker known as "The Ultimate Smoker and Grill," which is sponsored by the History Channel. Winding down from his recent Cross Country Cook-off, he is ready to focus his efforts at the Frisco located restaurant.


I had the pleasure of working with Trace when he volunteered his services in West, TX following the fertilizer plant tragedy. During this event, a physician from Boston had pizza delivered to the local hospitals to feed their staff who were working tirelessly around the clock. In return, Trace flew up to Boston with coolers full of ribs to repay the generosity to the Massachusetts General Hospital which was the main hub for treating the Boston Marathon bombing victims. Human spirit at it's finest.

Along with other local food writers or the overly saturated term "foodies", we gathered at one of the community tables located parallel to the bar which offers 30 craft beers on tap - the majority of them being locally owned. The majority of them which my weekend spending habits help maintain their brewing operations.

As we sat there, he educated us with his barbecue gospel in the form of three rules. And like a preacher, I was scolded for paying more attention to the food than his word. It's the ADD folks.
 
RULE #1: NEVER put sauce on your ribs. Good ribs don't need sauce. And if the ribs are great, then it's just a crime.

RULE #2: If you come to 3 Stacks and love what they serve, it is your duty to go out and bring a friend or a coworker back with you to share the knowledge.

RULE #3: If you ever eat anything you don't 100% love, find Trace Arnold or anyone who works at 3 Stacks and let them know so they can fix the problem and make it right.
 
First to bat were the brisket and zesty sausage pizzas, both of which include fresh jalapenos, red onion, and 6 cheese blend over their house BBQ sauce. Topped with fresh hand-torn cilantro. I would have to say they were both admirable but let's cut to the chase, where's the barbecue?
 
 
Next we were entertained with the entire appetizer and side menu. I shuttered at the thought of being bloated before one pull of meat from a rib was ever taken but as a lover of stuffed peppers, I couldn't resist the Jalapeno Fire Crackers. As described by the menu, "Fresh jalapeno halves stuffed with our slow smoked brisket. Cheese, cilantro, and red onion. Wrapped in bacon, oven roasted, and then topped with our plum chipotle glaze. Served with a side of zesty waffle fries and our avocado ranch dipping sauce for a spicy, cool combination." Skip the dressing folks - these are good naked.
 

Among the plethora of sides, the tangy cilantro coleslaw, Nena's cold potato salad and 6 cheese mac and cheese were the my personal winners. Opinions vary as we did have one vegetarian among us. Unfortunately, I'm not up to par with her level of agriculture knowledge to maintain an intelligent discussion about grass and peaches.
 
 
I began to get jittery in my chair as my ADD started to kick in again, but two massive platters of smoked protein appeared and calmed this self-diagnosed characteristic of mine. I was nearly knocked over by the mad rush of "foodies" b-lining it with Apple products in hand to photograph this heavenly descent of meat.
 
 
After all the commotion and dust settled, we feasted. Served were slices of jalapeno sausage, meaty ribs, smoked turkey and brisket. One thing I was kitten-facing about was the brisket. It was lean, trimmed and resting woefully on the platter. Trace then asked if we needed anything - yes please sir - fatty brisket. If you ask, you shall receive and two bountiful plates of burnt ends and savory moist brisket appeared. Ok, now we're as happy as a camel on hump day. All protein had an uncanny smoke flavoring which is appreciated by a meat enthusiast like myself.
 
 
Just when we were starting to believe the food assault comparable to D-Day was coming to an end and we were ready to raise a white flag of surrender, desserts from everywhere propelled themselves onto the table. Why must I continue to be bludgeoned with such good food? To keep it short, the Texas Pecan Pie Ya'll and Banana Pudding were Grandma quality stuff. That's a pretty good measurement tool in my world. Don't leave without trying them.


I would have to give it to Trace and Cynthia Smoot for a successful lunch to educate customers on the difference between good barbecue and great barbecue. In his words, "people are addicted to bad barbecue because they haven't had great barbecue." Well said Trace, and you're among many kickass Texas Pitmasters who are winning us over - one smoked meat at a time.

Sunday, September 15, 2013

The State of Mobile BBQ

The words risk and failure are almost synonymous with new businesses while ambition, ingenuity, and hard work are all characteristics that form what we know as an entrepreneur. Ironically enough, an entrepreneur is defined as a "person who takes risks."
The owners of barbecue restaurants are in every sense defining the entrepreneurial spirit. For them, they work 12 plus hours daily. They rely on support from their families, friends and of course - the equally hard working employees who stand by them. And they build their business from the shell of a former propane tank.

I thought about the backgrounds and beginnings of a few Pitmasters I have had the pleasure to learn from. Each background was unique in its own regard. Bennie Washington of Whup's Boomerang Bar-B-Que was a former truck driver for Pepsi, Jack Perkins of The Slow Bone was once a school teacher, and like Justin Fourton of Pecan Lodge, a former corporate consultant. While some Pitmasters had the privilege of growing up within the industry, others had to take a knife, a chunk of wood and carve out their creation. 

The rise of mobile barbecue has been noted through the success of the Fourton’s with catering and from Aaron Franklin who worked for John Mueller out of a trailer in Austin. Justin and Aaron now have a building and well John...he still enjoys the trailer park life. This is a phenomenon currently occurring in Austin with upstarts like Scotty's BBQ off Rainey Street and Micklethwait Craft Meats, smartly located in close proximity to Franklin Barbecue on 11th.

Pitmasters remind me of modern day cattle drive cooks. Their passion and dedication could have been found in the late-1800s along the cattle trails feeding the men at night beside the campfire. They were generally the most respected member of the team having medical supplies as well as medical care knowledge. They maintained nourishment and health.


Quite frequently overlooked is the art of catering or it's equivalent from cattle drive days simply called "chuck wagon cooking." Many barbecue restaurants begin with catering only, such as Pecan Lodge and Cattleack BBQ - both located in Dallas - while Joseph’s Riverport of Jefferson, TX, began as a storefront with catering on the side. With this in mind, I wanted to gain a better feel of the pros and cons, differences and similarities, and the ease or difficulties that come with the mobile side of barbecue. The best way to find out is by asking those live it day in and day out.

Cody Neathery: Since you’ve done catering previously and currently, what's the first thought that goes through your mind when a customer calls for your services?

Justin Fourton: The first couple of years, catering was what helped us survive before word of mouth had started to bring a decent amount of people down to the restaurant. So typically, the first thought that came to mind was “Sweet, this means will be able to pay our electricity bill next week.”

Todd David: The first thing that goes through my mind is "Do I already have a golf game that day?" Next we start looking at what their event is and how our barbecue and catering will assist in making that a special event. The old, "WOW," factor.

CN: Imagining the level of perfection you want to deliver when someone asks you to serve food at a wedding or retirement party - what are some preparations involved with catering, such as using a smoker you don’t cook with on a daily basis?

JF: A successful catering job goes way beyond just whether or not the food was good. The logistics involved for producing an event and staffing it well are very important. Making sure you’ve taken the time to plan things out in detail and having good people onsite is critical. We use Lurlene (our trailer pit) for offsite catering; I’ve never cooked for clients on a pit that wasn’t ours. I think it would be very stressful to cook on a pit you were unfamiliar with.

Stephen Joseph: Keeping the product hot and cold according to the Health Department regulations. The food must meet your personal standards before it ever leaves the facility. Be sure you have everything you need before you leave, including gas for the catering vehicle.

TD: While we have taken our smoker and serving rig to a few events, it is not as popular as you would think. People want the food, plenty of it, with excellent quality, and great service. Since we have a very large commercial truck with temperature controlled compartments, they prefer the food to already be smoked, sliced and ready to serve. It really depends how much the client wants to see the actual smoking verses just having the rig and smoke for aesthetics.

CN: If a catered event falls on a Saturday evening – how do you manage cooking from Friday night to Saturday morning for normal restaurant hours then meeting the demand for the same food quality at an event where the guest attendance can mirror your earlier day’s business?

SJ: Either I or another employee will come in late in the evening or very early the next morning and put the meat on.

TD: Since we only cater - except for our Friday take out - and specialize in catering, the restaurant issue does not come up. If it did, it is easy to cook during the day for a night event verses cooking at night for a lunch event.

JF: You have to stagger the timing of when meat goes on the pit, so that it comes off later in the day, closer to event time.

CN: There must be some tricks of the trade you can tell me that you’ve found to be successful when catering events that are not conveniently close to your restaurant or when something goes wrong.

TD: They won’t be tricks if I tell you. The biggest decision we made in the early days was spend the money for a very sophisticated truck to keep hot things hot, cold things cold and to have enough food for thousands. So traveling from Dallas to west Ft. Worth is not an issue any more. We also always send two trucks in case one breaks down so we are not stranded. Learned that one the hard way.

SJ: If the event is not close to your facility then it is of the utmost importance to know your surroundings. Being in a rural area, you better know where a country store, Dollar Store or a Wal-Mart is located in the event you do forget something.

JF: Duct tape and tin foil are two items that we don’t leave home without!

CN: Knowing that producing high quality barbecue comes from many trials and way more errors, tell me one of the more humorous situations you’ve found yourself in while catering.

JF: We catered a charity event for a group of about 200 people in the middle of a field. It was true farm-to-table cooking…including the grasshoppers that we had to shoo off the table’s right before guests arrived. They had just shredded the field to make room to setup the stage and all the tables. It was a great event, but no one could have anticipated the grasshopper thing. Luckily, all the guests were comfortable with a more “rustic” event!

TD: Not wearing my glasses when prepping a rub for testing of ribs. When everyone ate the ribs, they spoke about how good they were but they were so salty you had to take a drink after every bite. Turns out I had misread the amount and used 3 times the amount of salt. My son still reminds me of that since he was part of the testing. Typical college boy.

CN: Many barbecue restaurants cut their teeth from catering. If you began this way, would you consider that method to be an easier transition – mobile to concrete? There must be some important lessons learned from this that can be shared.

JF: We started this way and I think it’s a great way to do it. You limit your financial exposure in terms of requirements for the space you cook out of, you don’t have to worry about any waste (you know ahead of time exactly how much to prepare) and you can keep your staffing costs pretty low.

TD: I have only done this on a light scale as we now open our kitchen on Fridays only for takeout. So when you cater, many times you are just dropping off the food. It has to be great because there are no employees to sell the company. In the store front, it’s all about personality, great food, and service. Systems that work in one must be modified or redone to work in the other. Personalities of employees that work well in one, may not work well in the other. Holding food at a catering job is tougher I feel than cutting meat right off the smoker as someone orders in the storefront. It’s all about adapting and planning.

CN: If you started out mobile, what were the difficulties faced when moving to a permanent location?

JF: We didn’t have any restaurant experience going into our opening, outside of my illustrious career as a host at Steak ‘n Ale in high school. Let’s just say that we were a bit naïve about the amount of work it takes to run a restaurant. We’re over the hump now, but it’s a tough business to be in. You have to be just as good at running the day to day operations and financial side of the business as you are a cook.

CN: Despite the success, accolades, statewide and national attention received, looking back would you take the same path knowing what you know now?

TD: This is my passion - smoking and serving barbecue. I would have done it earlier in life instead of as a retirement business, however my success in business before the barbecue, allowed me the opportunity to pursue my passion.

JF: If you’d asked me this question at the end of the first year, I would have traded it all back in for my bi-weekly direct deposit from Accenture. Once we got over the difficulties of the first year, I wouldn’t trade it for anything. We’ve been extremely blessed and not a day goes by that I don’t say a prayer of thanks.

SJ:  I believe that if I had a chance to start over again that I would follow in Jack Perkins’ footsteps - I'm being serious here - and open a hamburger joint that does things the right way. I'd only do classic burgers and fries with consistency, time after time with great customer service.

CN: What are some of the more popular food dishes your customers enjoy?

JF: From a BBQ perspective, I think the burnt ends are definitely a cult favorite. One of my favorite things we do (usually just for events) is our green chile hominy casserole.

TD: The “Que-T-Pie." This is a homemade hand held BBQ Pie. We make our own pastry and stuff it with chopped smoked brisket burnt ends, onions, cheese, and our Special Reserve BBQ sauce.

SJ: Our number one seller has always been the chopped beef sandwich. For catering, the most popular choices are brisket, turkey, and sausage.

CN: Give me your one piece of wisdom for young cooks who want to start their own barbecue trailer, catering service, or storefront.

JF: Don’t quit your day job. Seriously though, start slow and work on your technique. Build the business organically and be very frugal so you don’t end up in a lot of debt. If you have the dream of “being your own boss”, remember that you end up working for an investor or the bank if you take on too much too fast. Adjust your personal cost of living down to the bare minimum before you make the jump to your own business.

TD: Number one, don’t put off dream or your dream will become someone else’s reality. Start at the bottom of a very good independent owned barbecue joint as an employee and learn everything you can to either go out on your own or make yourself so valuable you will take that barbecue joint over as your own.

SJ: Start small and grow into your business at your pace. Don't rush things or you will make mistakes. Stay committed to quality and freshness - never cut corners. Stick to the basic, very simple and most importantly, repeatable recipes. Be the same person every day because employees look for consistency from management. Do your best to treat each employee fairly and equally. Communicate clearly to your crew. Always remember that no matter how many awards or write-ups that your restaurant has received, the most important thing is the customer at your counter right now. Do your best to make them happy.

CN: Lastly, name a favorite movie, band, and more importantly, food other than barbecue.

TD: Movie - The Outlaw Josey Wales, one of Clint’s best.

JF: Band - I don’t have favorite band, but love listening KNON’s blues show and old country music, mix in a little Grateful Dead and the occasional Kid Rock song and that’s pretty much how I roll.

SJ: Food other than barbecue - A good ol' greasy burger and fries.

America was built by average men and women who had big dreams. From the hands of the individuals involved, we as country have thrived on the allure of success. We usually aspire to start businesses not because it's easy or because everyone else is, but because there is a spark of interest within that we wish to at least, take a passive or rather flirtatious look at.

For those who move forth with an aggressive approach, success - more often than not - will eventually come. It may not be today or tomorrow but it will come with patience. Success doesn't necessarily mean driving a Mercedes Benz or skiing every winter; Success is defined by what we want it to be. 

As Bob Dylan once said, “A man is a success if he gets up in the morning and gets to bed at night, and in between he does what he wants to do.” I believe these aforementioned cooks would agree.