Follow on Twitter: @DFWBBQ
With an endless amount of steakhouses in and around Dallas, one
genre that hasn’t been tapped is a bar
with a meat centered menu. In short, a watering hole where a guest can enjoy a Notary
(similar to an Old Fashion) while hanging out at a meat counter. This constitutes
for personal jubilation.
At The Blind Butcher, Goodfriend owners Matt Tobin and
Josh Yingling, kept the interior simple, yet classic. It has the welcomed appearance of a prohibition era saloon,
but also offers neighborhood warmth fitting for Greenville Avenue.
Upon entering, you'll notice all furnishings are painted black,
and there isn’t much light beside the soft glow from wall lamps and flatscreen
TVs. Taking a seat on a barstool will guarantee a bartender's introduction with a handshake
and you may catch yourself people watching via the bar’s giant mirror. I imagine a small room full of cigar smoking, fedora wearing gamblers tucked
in the rear but in reality, a spacious patio with another bar.
Big Meat board (photo by Greg Cella)
After several visits since February, I’ve been impressed
each time with both new items and the consistency of previous items
ordered. The front of the menu is divided by snacks (appetizers rather), boards
for sharing, and hand cranked sausages. Aside from the cocktail and beer menu,
I find this to be all one needs to enjoy their inaugural experience here.
Actually the only two items we ordered from the back of the menu was Pork Belly
Poutine and Duck Fat Fries.
The Pig Ears, served with a side of orange aioli, are fried with an
unassuming chewiness due to a thin piece of cartilage within. During our
last visit, an agreement among the table was an improvement on the already
great tasting snack. The house-cured Pastrami eggrolls were also still a favorite.
Ordered on the second visit was the Big Meat Board. This is
your man’s man dish. Having enough meat to feed four, the protein is a
selection of daily specials. What stood out on this evening were the bison
short rib and stuffed chicken.
When it came time to sample the sausage, you cannot simply
deny an opportunity to devour Duck Foie Gras sausage with chutney. For
a less pretentious sounding choice, the bacon bratwurst with
sauerkraut was also carefully selected.
The Duck Foie Gras stood out between the two, having a deeply
rich and satisfying flavor. The bacon brat, though composed of a completely
different animal, made it tough to be comparable. However, the brat refused to settle for anything less
than approval in taste.
Tangent: Bacon is the cornerstone of the American way
of life by celebration of gluttony. The only way to disrespect bacon is to fry it. Sure, throw rocks
at me. Then go make your own bacon and ovenize it. After this, you will never ever purchase Kroger bacon again or fry it. If you do, be prepared for my rock hurling.
Poutine's popularity in Canada is equivalent to Hawaii's obsession with Spam. Because of it's recent arrival on local dining tables, the Blind Butcher has three styles to choose from. While sparse of meat and not quite as tender, the Pork Belly Poutine was unique in
the flavor delivery. In addition to the belly, layered on a pile of fries was a
smoky gravy and cheese curds.
Blind Butcher wall menu (photo by Greg Cella)
I found this to be a choice go-to dish after a
few late night beers from their sexy menu of libations. The Chips and Beer cheese were also lightly decorated with
duck pastrami and beer goat cheese, on what seemed to be generic potato
chips.
Chef Oliver Sitrin has quietly carved a spot in the upper echelon of local meat
purveyors with his unique menu and specialty sausages. The Blind Butcher is
a must for meat aficionados to engage their digestive system. But most important is that you can shop for hand
cranked sausage – while sipping a Notary.